Breaking News! Possible closing of the Musée des Tissus de Lyon

Many people have noted the gradual disappearance of lace on view at major museums, or even vanishing lace collections themselves.  From the closure of the Salle van Overloop in Brussels up to the recent lace deaccessions at auction in New York (due largely to the transfer of the Brooklyn Museum’s costume collection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art – it’s a complex and little understood story). And the decline in government support for other museums around the world has put important lace collections at risk.

The latest threat is to the French Musée des Tissus de Lyon (http://tinyurl.com/hstfmuo). They are losing the support of the French government, and an important sponsor, the Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie (CCI).  I visited this museum in 1980 and was left virtually alone with their lace collection in storage – an amazing experience.  August Lefébure documented the collection in a 114 plate publication in 1909. Other publications date back to 1890.  The museum is also the home of the highly regarded Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Anciens (CIETA) http://tinyurl.com/z7dbc44.  I don’t know what effect this would have on the activities of CIETA.

There is a petition on Change.org addressed to Mme Fleur Pellerin, the French Minister of Culture and Communication urging that the museum be kept open.  Please consider signing the petition at http://tinyurl.com/ngodq9m.

Here’s an article in French explaining more of the situation. http://tinyurl.com/h93pswj

Posted in Museums | 1 Comment

Ebay Alerts! Forty-four items – December 6, 2015

http://tinyurl.com/hceovgj UNE ANCIENNE DENTELLE DE BRUXELLES /POINT DE GAZE : 95cm x 20cm
Size: 20 cm x 95 cm
Starting Price: 9.90 EUR
Auction ends: December 6, 2015, 2015, 6:11 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller ninou21patch, FRANCE
Comments: A border of Brussels bobbin and needlelace applique on machine net.  A moderately wide piece with elaborate 2nd Empire romantic floral design. Note the careful work on the esprits throughout the ground. The needlelace is confined to flower heads and a few swags near the lower border filled with simple knot ‘mode’ fillings.  Occasional ring ‘mode’, but nothing complex.  Overall quite a nice effect, wish there were more.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 3rd quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Cut both ends.
Damage: Small holes and pulls in the mesh. Some repair to the tulle, looks like it might be original.
Soilage: A few localized brown spots.
Finish: ‘Creasing throughout, some vertical folds.

371498686015   Sold for 37.29 EUR, 6 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/jjdtn6o FANTASTIC FRENCH 19THC BERTHE/COLLAR IRISH HANDMADE CROCHET LACE CREAM COLORED
Size: 36″ outside circumference.  6″ deep.
Starting Price: $49.99 Buy-it-Now
Auction ends: December 6, 2015, 2015, 6:13 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller seltmeister, simmerath, Germany
Comments: A collar of Irish Crochet with what I like to call ‘snowflake’ medallions.  These heavily padded rings form a snowflake or flower with 7 outer rings. The heavy padding is also used in rings in other medallion/flower centers.  Picoted square mesh, I think the picots are chained loops.  Good tight design with long points to the collar.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: later 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: I see one broken mesh, minor.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: I think there’s a horizontal fold creases through the circular part of the collar.

121808398455   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/hym5xvp An Antique Lace Cloth Or Handkerchief Very Detailed
Size: 38cm square
Starting Price: £80.00
Auction ends: December 6, 2015, 2015, 10:02 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller rubysshed, Leighton buzzard, United Kingdom
Comments: A handkerchief of Brussels bobbinlace applique on machine net. Fairly simple floral design effectively arranged. The motifs are delicately made – I especially like the sprigs coming off the band of pearls along the outside border. Grids of needle-made knots and some small rings are the only decorative ‘mode’ fillings.  A nice example of this lace in the handkerchief form.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: later 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: No obvious damage from the photos, I though I had a pinhole or two spotted, hard to tell.
Soilage: This is photographed on a brown background, but I think I see some faint red spots in the lace.
Finish: Some small vertical creases along the lower edge.

221954479615   Sold for £82.00, 5 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/h82yxpg A Charming Antique Honiton Lace Stole in Original Box C.1880/90
Size: 48 cm x 132 cm
Starting Price: £52.00
Auction ends: December 6, 2015, 2015, 10:30 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller winterwonderlandfairy, london, United Kingdom
Comments: I think this might be a bonnet veil of Honiton applique on machine net. There is no photo of the whole thing laid flat, but there is a closeup of an edge that looks like a typical bonnet veil band meant to thread a ribbon through. The Honiton is snails/slugs style, difficult to access the pattern the way it is presented in the listing.
The box is a very rare survivor, I don’t recall seeing one before.
Provenance: Presumably from A. Blackborne, South Audley Street (London) lace manufacturer.  “A” could be for Anthony or his son Arthur. Their shop lace stock is now in the Bowes Museum, given in 2006, with other pieces also spread among various museums.  This is a famous name among English lace dealers.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None, I presume.
Damage: Small holes and pinholes in the tulle. A short separation from the ‘ribbon’ edge.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Seems to have been kept in tissue in the original box.

311495771846   Sold for £52.00, 1 bidder.

http://tinyurl.com/jgrxpgu Antique/vintage Honiton lace motif – bird and berries – Mrs Treadwin?
http://tinyurl.com/pl93h3n 3 antique/vintage Honiton lace butterflies – Mrs Treadwin?
http://tinyurl.com/jlzmpp3 Antique/vintage Honiton lace motif – viola and leaves – Mrs Treadwin?
http://tinyurl.com/op5txoq 4 antique/vintage Honiton lace butterflies – Mrs Treadwin?
http://tinyurl.com/hpfc2ak Antique/vintage Honiton lace motif – flower spray- Mrs Treadwin?
Size: motifs:  #1 – 2.2″ x 2.2″.  #2 – 1.9″ x 2.2″, 1.1″ x 1.1″, 1.2″ x 1.2″.
#3 – 3″ x 2.8″.  #4 – 2.1″ x 0.5″, 1″ x 0.5″, 0.75″ x 0.5″, 0.75″ x 0.5″.
#5 – not given.
Starting Price: all £20.00
Auction ends: December 6, 2015, 2015, 11 AM PST
December 7, 2015, 2015, 11:02 AM PST
December 7, 2015, 2015, 11:07 AM PST
December 7, 2015, 2015, 11:13 AM PST
December 8, 2015, 2015, 10:25 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: Unmounted Honiton motifs come up for sale more than you might think. These are all well out of the snails/slugs mode, and demonstrate excellent technique and design.  They are all for a garden scene, and were probably meant to applique on machine net.  Beautiful work. Someone should write a pattern book on these someday.
I wonder why so many of these were put on blue paper, was it part of the manufacturing process?
Provenance: These are all sophisticated motifs, but difficult to attribute to any specific maker.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: They all look clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles, attaching to blue paper has helped survival.  The papers themselves are in a variety of conditions.

331720372048   Sold for £187.80, 2 bidders.
231769867421   Sold for £90.00, 5 bidders
331721372736  Sold for 36.00, 3 bidders.
331721375589   Sold for 157.00, 5 bidders.

331722289378   Sold for £26.00, 4 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/nu484yv A Beautiful Antique Brussels Lace Bertha collar & Cuffs
Size: cuffs, 8 cm x 21 cm.  frontpiece, 48 cm x 51 cm laid flat.
Starting Price: £58.00
Auction ends: December 6, 2015, 2015, 11:15 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller winterwonderlandfairy, london, United Kingdom
Comments: A frontpiece or collar of Duchesse de Bruges with a pair of cuffs.  The cuffs don’t appear to match the frontpiece, but both are in the same basic style. Conventional motifs, with a very dense pattern.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious form the photos.
Soilage: Some staining along the neckline of the frontpiece.
Finish: Some vertical fold creases in the frontpiece.

311497158120   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/j8pczb8 Unusual handmade vintage IRISH CROCHET – wearable collector’s study piece
Size: ~33-34″ on the inside edge, ~10″ deep center back.
Starting Price: $29.00
Auction ends: December 6, 2015, 2015, 11:15 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller lacemerchant, Whiting, Indiana, United States
Comments: An unusual Irish Crochet collar, or perhaps a headpiece as the seller notes. The motifs are fairly simple, 5 petaled rose and leaves that do look a little like tape lace. But the ground is quite unusual – it’s a square mesh with a picot loop set in one corner of each square. This gives the lace a very dense appearance, and the work tends to bunch up a bit along the edges. There is a little raised work of freely hanging narrow leaves in some motifs, almost like what they do in France.
To me it’s an acquired taste.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious form the photos.
Soilage: Seller cites a ‘pearl white’ color with some minor staining.
Finish: Doesn’t lie quite flat (minor).

141840830538   Sold for $33.00, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/zgymk7h C. 1800 Handmade Bruges Bobbin Lace Cloth 31″x32″ possible Ecclesiastical
Size: 31″ x 32″
Starting Price: $899.00, $1,200.00 Buy-it-Now
Auction ends: December 6, 2015, 2015, 5:23 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller prairiegrasscollectibles, Springfield, Illinois, United States
Comments: A square of Brussels bobbinlace with brides, in the style of the 1730’s. Maybe a little loosely woven.  It has been made up of 4 separate sections of the same border, these run vertically in the thumbnail below. If you divide the piece in two vertically, the sections have been turned so that the piece is kind of a mirror image around that line. I believe that the top and bottom edges in the thumbnail have new picot edges added, although there aren’t enough closeups of these areas to really tell what is going on.  The design is of feathery scrolling leaves, and the basic pattern is intact. Not sure how much has been cut off the top edges of the original flounce.
Provenance: From an Augusta Auctions sale, doesn’t say which one.
Date: ~1730’s
Condition:
Modifications: An assembled piece.
Damage: Nothing obvious form the photos.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Horizontal and vertical fold creases.

252191726802   Sold for $1,000.00, 1 bidder.

http://tinyurl.com/nqjpbn6 Antique handworked Maltese Silk Cream Lace Collar & Lappets
Size: Not given
Starting Price: £20.00
Auction ends: December 7, 2015, 2015, 2:43 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller 50bathview, Bath, Avon, United Kingdom
Comments: A Maltese frontpiece and cuff set.  The collar looks a bit abruptly terminated at the ends, but it doesn’t look cut. The collar and cuffs apper to match.  Note the very dense background of woven leaves with the Maltese crosses for once, taking second place in the design.  Interesting set.
Provenance: Listing says ‘hand made by my great grandparent’.  Hopefully that person came from Malta or Gozo.
Date: 1st half 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious form the photos.
Soilage: Some light isolated brown stains.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

262168460990   Sold for £20.00, 1 bidder.

http://tinyurl.com/h8u4bwv Brussels rose point de gaze bertha collar, c 1900
Size: laid flat 11.5″ inner diameter, 22″ outer diameter
Starting Price: £65.00
Auction ends: December 7, 2015, 2015, 11:00 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller 999dogtoby, Bath, United Kingdom
Comments: A Point de Gaze bertha with raised petal roses.  Nicely flowing design, not as crowded and fussy as you sometimes see.  The decorative ‘mode’ fillings are simple, only one type used in the swag-work near the outer edge.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: Late 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Small holes and pinholes in the mesh, especially near the neckline.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

291628129837   Sold for £67.00, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/zbgn9f9 Brussels Rose point de gaze needlepoint collar
Size: laid flat, 13″ x 9.25″
Starting Price: £20.00
Auction ends: December 7, 2015, 2015, 11:30 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller 999dogtoby, Bath, United Kingdom
Comments: A neat little collar of Point de Gaze with raised petal roses. Seems to be a choker collar, and there were probably matching pieces that went with it originally. No elaborate ‘mode’ fillings, other than the usual semicircles in the rose centers.  Nice design, with good, precise work.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: Late 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

291628137715   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/jr689ez ANTIQUE LACE- CIRCA 18THC. MECHLIN LACE LAPPET
Size: 90″ x 3.5″
Starting Price: $45.00 with reserve.
Auction ends: December 7, 2015, 2015, 11:54 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller mithya, New York, United States
Comments: Joined bobbinlace lappets, Brussels pieced motifs with droschel ground. The technique is good, with some interesting fillings. But the design is not very sophisticated.  I’m wondering if these are English pieces, although the technique looks more Flemish.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: mid 18th c.
Condition:
Modifications: No photos of the join so hard to say what the condition of the tops of the lappets is.  Picoted edge is a 19th c. addition.
Damage: Mesh has a lot of pulls and repairs.  Some fillings have holes, and it looks like some attempt to repair fillings was made with needlelace mesh stitches.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Horizontal fold creases.

391333983047   $45.00, 1 bidder, reserve not met.

http://tinyurl.com/pqgmwdv A VICTORIAN BRUSSELS POINT DE GAZE LACE COLLAR WITH TRIPLE RAISED ROSES
Size: 17″ neckline, 3″ deep center back, with 11.5″ front points.
Starting Price: £40.00
Auction ends: December 7, 2015, 2015, 12:36 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller garden*hill, Reading, United Kingdom
Comments: A collar with long front points of Point de Gaze.  The raised petal roses (3 layers in places) are quite interesting, with many small petals. This is a good example of how the petal structure is supported by a coarse base mesh. Note the large medallions of decorative “mode” fillings. I like the way the design flows down the points. At the back it’s a bit more conventional.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: mid 18th c.
Condition:
Modifications: No photos of the join so hard to say what the condition of the tops of the lappets is.  Picoted edge is a 19th c. addition.
Damage: Several repairs to the mesh, in some places it looks replaced. Mainly done at the back of the neck.
Soilage: Looks clean, maybe a little beige in color.
Finish: Hard to tell but there might be a fold crease at the back of the neck.

191748344189   Sold for £43.00, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/jjrnse3 Point de Gaze antique Tambour tulle net embroidered lace BUCKS 1 YARDS +13″
Size: 2.5″ x 1 yard 13″
Starting Price: $16.99
Auction ends: December 7, 2015, 2015, 2:51 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller the.lace.place, Spokane, Washington, United States
Comments: This is a difficult one to access, the photos are fuzzy.  I think it might late 18th c Burano, but I can’t see the cordonnet clearly.  Might be Alençon, however it looks a bit too plain for that, and I can’t tell if the cordonnet is buttonholed or overcast.  The fillings are also a little sloppy.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: late 18th early 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: I think the ends are cut, but have been finished with similar needlelace work.  Engrelure added.
Damage: General wear overall with a few pinholes in the mesh.
Soilage: Looks clean, maybe a little beige in color.
Finish: Some light vertical fold creases.

331721506274   Sold for $21.00, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/hpbrkyx Briggs Patent No 2 Wheel for Teneriffe Lae made of brass lacemaking crafts
Size: 3.5″ long
Starting Price: £10.00
Auction ends: December 7, 2015, 2015, 2:51 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller boltsdadnick12, camelford, Cornwall, United Kingdom
Comments: You see Brigg Teneriffe lace wheels advertised in the Manchester School of Embroidery magazine, issues no. 35, 1912.  The US patent is dated Dec 31, 1901 in the name of Ada Sykes Dixon, and was later assigned to the William Briggs company in Manchester. (there is an Ada S. Davies who lectured in embroidery at the Manchester School of Needlework, unsure if this is the same Ada who held the patent.)
There was a round one, and this ‘bow tie’ one, made in brass, aluminum, and something that looks like tortoiseshell.  These forms are meant to be attached to a small cushion (also sold by the same company – I have one in my collection) with pins through the holes, and the threads were wound around the pins. You could make three different forms with the ‘bow tie’ one.
The brass ‘bow tie’ form is fairly rare.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 1900
Condition:
Modifications:None.
Damage: A little scratched, not bad.  No photo of the backside.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Slight patina.

221956074024   Sold for £45.00, 6 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/o9lk5z4 Antique/vintage Brussels Duchesse lace collar/dress front
Size: 18″ neckline, neck to front edge, 11″
Starting Price: £15.00
Auction ends: December 8, 2015, 2015, 10:28 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A Bruges Bloemwerk collar with roughly square picoted brides.  Good tight weaving weaving, and a nice presence to the design.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: Early 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications:None.
Damage: A little frayed along the neckline.
Soilage: Seller cites ‘antique white colour’.  Occasional tiny red spot.
Finish: Might be a soft fold line at the back of the neck.

331722291620   Sold for £15.00, 1 bidder.

http://tinyurl.com/he5yomz 78 ins antique/vintage Brussels Duchesse lace border – rose and leaf
Size: 1./7″ x 78″
Starting Price: £25.00
Auction ends: December 8, 2015, 2015, 10:42 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A long Duchesse de Bruges border.   Short repeat of one flower and some leaves and a tendril.  Irregular picoted brides.  Single woven tally fillings, and this pushes it a bit to the Bloemwerk side.  Note the integrated bobbin-made ‘engrelure’.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: Late 19th early 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Cut one end, can’t tell on the other end.
Damage: Seller cites an occasional broken bride.
Soilage: Seller cites ‘pale ivory colour’.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

231770936067   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/ncybc73 Antique/vintage Carrickmacross lace collar
Size: 35″ neckline, back depth 6″
Starting Price: £65.00
Auction ends: December 8, 2015, 2015, 10:52 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A collar of Carrickmacross applique on machine net.  Impressive design and technique.  Note the typical ring picots along the outer edge, and areas of needle-run fillings.  No bridework on this piece.  Also note the extra touch of the heavy rings in flower centers.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: Late 19th early 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller cites muslin coming away from stitching in a few places. That’s pretty common in pieces like this.
Soilage: Seller cites ‘mid ivory colour’.  I see a few localized small red spots.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

231770947918   Sold for £65.00, 1 bidder.

http://tinyurl.com/jr4ld7a Rare bobbin lace border c1700, of Valenciennes or Binche type.
Size: 30″ x 2.3″
Starting Price: £45.00
Auction ends: December 8, 2015, 2015, 11:00 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller 999dogtoby, Bath, United Kingdom
Comments: A border of the style called ‘Binche’. And from what we know of the very small 18th c Binche lace industry, this could be typical of that area.  Similar things were made in Valenciennes, but usually with more emphasis on clothwork. This very small motif pattern with the snowflake ground has led directly to the Binche of today.  So we don’t really know the origin of pieces like this, but the name for the style seems to have stuck.  Note the very fine thread which first appears in the early 18th c, and the vertically symmetric design with a short repeat is a little unusual for this style.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: Early 18th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Cut both ends.
Damage: Frayed top and bottom edges, with a few holes and weaknesses in the main body. One major tear along the lower edge.
Soilage: Looks clean, but I think I see one small red spot along the lower border.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

291628166772   Sold for £88.78, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/z2tf66p LACE Brussels Mixed Lace Collar with 7 POINT DE GAZE Inserts
Size: 32.5″ neckline, 6.25″ deep.
Starting Price: $39.00
Auction ends: December 8, 2015, 2015, 11:00 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller curated_store, Dublin, Ohio, United States
Comments: A bertha of Duchesse de Bruxelles.  Raised petal roses in the 7 Point de Gaze inserts.  Conventional design, a little crowded.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: I can’t see the ends of the piece too well, but they don’t match well and I wonder if one has been cut off.  Very difficult to tell, ask the seller for more photos of that area.  It’s unusual for a bertha to lay entirely flat – this one seems a little bit short.
Damage: Two areas of broken brides.  Some pinholes in the ptdG mesh.
Soilage: Off white color. Some yellowed areas at the back of the neckline and back of the collar.  Two small red spots.  Seller says it has been carefully hand laundered and lightly pressed, but gives no details on the process.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

351593932681   Sold for $45.00, 4 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/jvy74rc Large POINT DE ROSE Needle Lace Collar, Ecru
Size: 35″ neckline, 5.75″ deep.
Starting Price: $42.00
Auction ends: December 8, 2015, 2015, 11:29 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller curated_store, Dublin, Ohio, United States
Comments: A fine Venise collar.  Note the single picots on the brides, along with a few trefoils where brides meet. What I find really interesting about this piece is that there are no raised edges on the motifs  (I’ve seen this before in some wide borders, but have yet to really place the origin of pieces like this).  There are just a few padded cordonnets in flower centers.  The chain of rings in some is very reminiscent of Point de Gaze, so it’s possible this is a Belgian piece. There are some interesting fillings used occasionally, but only clothwork variations.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Two repairs at the neckline.
Soilage: Ecru color. Some yellowed areas and some lightly rust stains.  Seller says it has been carefully hand laundered and lightly pressed, but gives no details on the process.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

351593932899   Sold for $57.00, 4 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/zpm4evj BURANO Needle Lace Dress Front Lined with Tulle, Dolls, Costume
http://tinyurl.com/nntxo7r Rare Burano Needlepoint lace set of dress front and cuffs, c. 1900
Size: no information on #1.  #2 – insert, 13.5″ x 6.5″. cuffs – 8.25″ x 3″.
Starting Price: $18.00
Auction ends: December 8, 2015, 2015, 11:29 AM PST
December 9, 2015, 2015, 11:02 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller curated_store, Dublin, Ohio, United States
Ebay seller 999dogtoby, Bath, United Kingdom
Comments: Here are two similar Burano sets. The first one appears to be a triangular insert attached to a choker collar. The endpieces might be cuffs. There is no in-focus photo of the whole thing.  The second one is just a triangular insert with two cuffs.
Both sets are fairly typical Burano products. There appears to be more varied fillings in the first set.  Burano doesn’t come up for sale that often, so it’s unusual to see such similar sets in the same week.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: First one is mounted on tulle. Looks assembled from an insert, two cuffs, and a choker caller. Boning and fasteners added to the collar.
Second one, no modifications.
Damage: First one – holes in the mesh, mostly in the triangular insert. Second one looks OK.  Second one, a little trimming at the top of the triangular insert.  A few holes in the mesh.
Soilage: They all look clean.
Finish: Seller says the first one is hand laundered and lightly pressed, but gives no other details. It is rather wrinkled.
No wrinkles or creases on the 2nd set.

351593933125   291627323627
Sold for $36.98, 3 bidders.
Sold for £52.00, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/zm3fupk 19c Brussels Point de Gaze Duchesse Lace Collar Hand work Bobbin & Needle Lace
Size: 7″ from neckline to bottom points, ~22″ wide.
Starting Price: $195.00
Auction ends: December 8, 2015, 2015, 11:46 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller deelz4u2
Comments: Speaking of attaching cuffs to a collar (see previous review), here’s another one. This Duchesse de Bruxelles set has a collar with a choker attached at the top, and two cuffs attached at the bottom.  And the cuffs look like they were attached upside down.  The collar and cuffs match, I’m not so sure about the choker part. But all together is somehow works.  No raised work in the Point de Gaze inserts, and there are some nice petaled ‘mode’ fillings in some flowers. I really like the little row of flowers on their vertical stalks in the choker.  The overall quality of this work is high.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Reassembled. Looks like disassembly would be straightforward.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: A few small red stains.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

272065847487   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/z5ulk52 exceptionnel mouchoir de mariée, dentelle à l’aiguille, Alençon, ancien
Size: 35 cm x 36 cm
Starting Price: 150.00 EUR
Auction ends: December 9, 2015, 2015, 7:58 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller lavandiere33, Aquitaine, France
Comments: A Point de Gaze monogrammed handkerchief, no raised work.  Just a few heavy rings used as fillings. Good design, well organized.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Occasional pinhole in the mesh.
Soilage: Seller cites some red stains, but I can’t see them.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

351591898872   Sold for 182.00 EUR, 5 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/q8xtqpj Maltese silk bobbin lace collar
Size: 21″ neckline. 22″ outer diameter. 6.25″ deep.
Starting Price: £17.50
Auction ends: December 9, 2015, 2015, 10:00 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller 999dogtoby, Bath, United Kingdom
Comments: A Maltese collar. 3 layers – Maltese crosses with a fond chant circle between on the  outside.  A series of lozenges on the inside.  There’s a nice series of flowers in the middle with lots of woven leaves.  Seller says the thread is quite fine, which is unusual.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 1st quarter 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller cites one small break in the neckline.
Soilage: Neckline a deeper cream color than the the rest of the piece.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

291627324517   Sold for £25.00, 4 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/zpk8erl Antique/vintage Honiton lace collar
Size: 389″ neckline, 5.5″ deep.
Starting Price: £25.00
Auction ends: December 9, 2015, 2015, 10:06 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A long Honiton collar. Point Honiton, with a needle-made ground. Snails/slugs style, with extensive woven tally ‘leadwork’ fillings of several types. Nicely woven, good design.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: ~1900.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Seller cites “antique white colour”.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

331723077951   Sold for £34.33, 4 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/qx6h5on Antique/vintage 18th century needle lace lappets – some damage
Size: 3.7″ x 33″
Starting Price: £25.00
Auction ends: December 9, 2015, 2015, 10:14 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A set of Alençon lappets.  Photos aren’t close enough to get a really good look at the mesh, but I think it’s réseau fin. Which would account for all the holes.  Late 18th c design, quite effectively carried out. The small motifs and short repeats, the double border, and near perfect technique are impressive.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 18th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Small holes and pinholes throughout.
Soilage: Seller cites “dark ecru colour”.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

331723085886   Sold for £79.00, 3 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/nh2v3ur Very rare flounce of late 17th century Venetian rose point lace in original form
Size: 7.5″ x 54″
Starting Price: £90.00 with reserve.
Auction ends: December 9, 2015, 2015, 10:15 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller 999dogtoby, Bath, United Kingdom
Comments: A border of Gros Point with an intact pattern.  Well sculpted cordonnet, and remarkably fine ornamented brides.  The simple lower edge with picoted half-rings is very typical. Excellent patterning in the clothwork.  This might be an earlier piece in the range of Gros Point due to the fairly simple clothwork. The bobbin-made header could be original.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 3rd quarter 17th century
Condition:
Modifications: Ends cut.
Damage: A few broken brides, minor. Seller cites repairs, but I’m not sure where they are.
Soilage: Seller notes some dirt along the lower border.  Off-white color overall.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

291627322150   £300.00, 4 bidders, reserve not met.

http://tinyurl.com/gn98dxw Brussels duchesse bobbin and point de gaze needle lace bertha collar, c. 1900
Size: neckline ~40″, depth 6″
Starting Price: £49.50
Auction ends: December 9, 2015, 2015, 10:30 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller 999dogtoby, Bath, United Kingdom
Comments: A bertha of Brussels Duchesse. No raised work in the Point de Gaze inserts There is some raised work on halfstitch background in the swags along the outer edge. Conventional motifs, all a little crowded. Good example of the type.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

291627315944   Sold for £111.20, 4 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/juewfad antique/vintage silk Maltese lace scarf
Size: Note given.
Starting Price: £25.00
Auction ends: December 9, 2015, 2015, 10:48 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A lappet scarf of cream silk Maltese. Flower pattern around the edges with a Maltese cross design running up the center. Nicely executed guipure.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: early 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller notes areas of wear, broken threads, and small repairs. Not very visible.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

331723110145   Sold for £92.11, 5 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/qh3zn86 Fine Irish Crochet Lace Collar Antique Intricate Designs Tassels Flowers NICE!
Size: Not given.
Starting Price: $56.00, $139.00 Buy-it-Now
Auction ends: December 9, 2015, 2015, 5:42 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller quiterightslick, Greeneville, Tennessee, United States
Comments: An Irish Crochet Collar.  Given the type of raised work and the balls and tassels I think it’s probably a French example.  Interesting floral work, very crisp.  Picoted square mesh.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: ~1900.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller notes areas of wear, broken threads, and small repairs. Not very visible.
Soilage: Creamy ivory color. Some light storage spots.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

111839944656   Sold for $67.66, 3 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/hk8xqbj BELGIAN LACE WEDDING HANDKERCHIEF, POINT DE GAZ CORNERS, NOTE FROM OWNER
Size: 13″ square
Starting Price: $55.00
Auction ends: December 9, 2015, 2015, 7:24 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller madhouserags, Concord, New Hampshire, United States
Comments: A Brussels Duchesse handkerchief with raised rose petals in the Point de Gaze inserts. Quite a complex design, well organized.
Provenance: Comes with a note reading “rose point handkerchief, used at my wedding, Mary H. A. Emerson”.  Uncertain if it belongs with this piece.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Off white in color with some light discoloration.  Yellowish color is from the photography.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

111840006454   Sold for $123.51, 3 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/jh3ym7w Antique fan eventail EXQUISITE carved MOP FINE Brussels lace
Size: 11″ long
Starting Price: £250.00
Auction ends: December 11, 2015, 2015, 8:48 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller lucymay*2011, York, United Kingdom
Comments: A fan of Brussels bobbinlace applique on machine net. With elaborately carved Mother of Pearl sticks, perhaps carved bone slips. Monogram and inlay in gold on the guard stick. Excellent romantic floral design. Unfortunately there aren’t any closeups of the photos, so hard to assess condition. You can see a few needle-made rings in the fillings.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 3rd quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Expected fan creases.

191752886792   Sold for £282.99, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/ze5r82r Exquisite Black Chantilly lace fan leaf eventail unused crisp Antique
Size: lace 6″ deep.
Starting Price: £185.00
Auction ends: December 11, 2015, 2015, 9:13 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller lucymay*2011, York, United Kingdom
Comments: An excellent Chantilly fan leaf. Interesting design with a little ombre effect against the ground at the left hand side. As with the previous piece, the photos don’t enlarge, so difficult to tell the condition.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 3rd quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

191752900665   Sold for £185.00, 1 bidder.

http://tinyurl.com/j8zdgvs Beautiful Antique Brussels Lace Lappet
Size: 5.5″ x 57″
Starting Price: $24.00
Auction ends: December 11, 2015, 2015, 11:53 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller antiqueswhileyouwait, Derby, Vermont, United States
Comments: A narrow scarf of Duchesse de Bruxelles. The only Point e Gaze is a medallion at each end filled with decorative ‘mode’ patterns. Note the narrow leaves in the center portion.  I think the very heavily pattern ends and the light center part are a bit at odds design-wise.  Overall excellent technique.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: One small red spot.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

181951401786   Sold for $71.00, 7 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/hhqfsxu Antique Irish Crochet Lace Panel Remnant Needlelace
Size: 6.5″ x 34″
Starting Price: $24.00
Auction ends: December 11, 2015, 2015, 12:41 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller antiqueswhileyouwait, Derby, Vermont, United States
Comments: Portion of an Irish Crochet panel that reminds me a lot of Theresa Dillmont’s book on Irish Crochet. So this might be a French piece.  Tight, precise work, and the picots on the square mesh might be Clones knots.  Not enough closeups to tell.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: ~1900.
Condition:
Modifications: Cut one end.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Slight discoloration in one spot.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

181951437323   Sold for $31.00, 3 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/qdqb9gw Antique Flemish Milanese Bobbin Lace Flounce 94″ long
Size: 8″ x 94″
Starting Price: $24.00
Auction ends: December 11, 2015, 2015, 1:12 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller antiqueswhileyouwait, Derby, Vermont, United States
Comments: I think this is an Italian piece. The vertical symmetry of the repeat reminds me of Abruzzi work.  The plated top and lower borders are also very Italian. Probably a mid 19th c piece.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 19th century.
Condition:
Modifications: Cut one end, can’t see the other end.
Damage: A few loose threads
Soilage: Seller cites slight discoloration.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

172019391273   Sold for $46.00, 5 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/pllx94l Antique BRUSSELS lace stole veil Bridal floral crisp superb condition
Size: 17″ x 100″
Starting Price: £325.00
Auction ends: December 12, 2015, 2015, 7:42 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller lucymay*2011, York, United Kingdom
Comments: A rectangular shawl of Brussels bobbinlace appliqued on machine net. Note the heavier areas with a bride ground at the ends and up the sides. This is an unusual arrangement and is quite effective.  Good romantic floral design with esprits throughout the ground.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photographs, but I can’t enlarge the photos so hard to tell.
Soilage: Seller cites two faint foxing areas.
Finish: Light storage creases.  Looks unused.

191753491074   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/q2ah8oe ANTIQUE LACE SUPERB BRUSSELS POINT DE GAZE TRIM BRIDAL c. 1880 19TH CENTURY
Size: 5″ x 161″
Starting Price: $450.00 Buy-it-Now
Auction ends: December 12, 2015, 2015, 9:23 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller zukhbaia, Brooklyn, New York, United States
Comments: A long border of Point de Gaze. Raised petal roses, note two layers along the border. These have the same multiple petal structure as the collar with long points reviewed above, and the same mesh base for the roses. Overall feel is also much the same, and this could be the same manufacturer.
Provenance: None cited.
Date: 19th century.
Condition:
Modifications: Cut one end, the other might be a natural termination.
Damage: Occasional pinhole.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

331706843412   No bids.

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Ebay Alerts! Fifteen items – November 29, 2015

http://tinyurl.com/ot8wqmo Lace making bobbin winder for Honiton/Midlands bobbins hand crafted in sycamore
Size: Not given.
Starting Price: £5.00
Auction ends: November 28, 2015, 5:06 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller philippa1014, Hook, United Kingdom
Comments: A bobbin winder made of sycamore which can be used either for Honiton or Midlands bobbins.  It can wind bobbins in pairs with an unbroken thread in between (not sure how that works).
Provenance: Designed and made by the seller’s late father, Reg Higgs, who supplied the English Lace School in the late 1980’s.
Date:  late 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None, just needs a new string drive band.
Damage: None.
Soilage: None.
Finish: Original – it’s been in storage.

11/29/2015 – the seller tells me that there is another one of these coming up for auction soon, made of Yew.

221947888634    Sold for £130.99, 9 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/zaxgpdj Antique/vintage Honiton lace bonnet veil – some damage
Size: 19″ x 36″
Starting Price: £12.00
Auction ends: November 28, 2015, 10:19 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A bonnet veil of Honiton applique on machine net. Very good quality motifs, well out of the snails/slugs style.  The overall design is a little odd with very large rather widely spaced floral sprays in the lower portion, just a few small sprigs used as esprits.  Well done lower border with thinner side borders.  I’m not sure how well this works as a veil.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: A major tear repaired just below the center spray (7″ long).  Small holes and pinholes in the mesh.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles – nice drape to the tulle.

231761686343   Sold for £26.09, 7 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/nkb2nuo TRUE VINTAGE STUNNING LADIES BLACK LACE HAND FAN LOVE BIRDS?
Size: 18″ wide.
Starting Price: $29.95
Auction ends: November 28, 2015, 11:20 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller tkourhome, Bay Shore, New York, United States
Comments: A Chantilly fan.  Note the figural work of birds, with conventional flowers in the rest of the design. The lace is mounted on a white silk? foundation. I  think the sticks are imitation tortoise shell, but the slips might be horn.  I’m just not certain, but you might want to get clarification from the seller.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos. Sticks look OK.
Soilage: Looks clean, but hard to tell with black lace.
Finish: Expected fan creases.  I’m not sure what’s going on on the right side, it looks like the piece isn’t fully open for the photo.

331716713226   Sold for $41.00, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/j9bscmx Huge antique Flanders flemish lace bridal shawl stole possible use for alb – VGC
Size: 23″ x 113″
Starting Price: $750.00 Buy-it-Now or Make Offer
Auction ends: November 28, 2015, 11:20 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller atelier1900, Gaillard, France
Comments: A shawl of pieced bobbinlace with a needle-made mesh ground, sometimes call Point de Milan.  I think it’s a Flemish piece. The motifs are large and fairly simple with woven squares used as fillings. The quality of this type lace varies considerably. The motifs also go under the name ‘Old Flanders’, but are not as refined as many examples.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  ~1900
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles.

401020006839   Unsold as of 12/2/2015, 10:11 AM MST.

http://tinyurl.com/j847zb2 LACE LAPPET W/APPLIQUES ON NET, RAISED EDGES, C. 1910 – VINTAGE ANTIQUE VICTORIAN
Size: 3.5″ x 42″
Starting Price: $75.95
Auction ends: November 28, 2015, 4:41 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller stormspire, Long Beach, California, United States
Comments: A lappet scarf of Carrickmacross applique on machine net. It has the typical looped picot edging, and good needlerun fillings.  The motifs are a bit large and repetitive, but I’ve never seen a form like this before in C. A.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  ~1900
Condition:
Modifications: Not enough closeups to tell if the lappets have been joined together.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Looks a yellow in the photos, and seller cites a small area of slight discoloration.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles.

141835310224   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/gobl7rr Luscious Museum Qu ality Antique Figural Needle Lace Coverlet ITALIAN Point
Size: 96″ x 62″
Starting Price: $2,200.00 Buy-it-Now or Make Offer
Auction ends: November 30, 2015, 9:02 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller vintageblessings, Meridian, Idaho, United States
Comments: There are a lot of needlelace Venise-type tablecloths on Ebay, but this one rises well above the average.  The quality of the design, especially the figures, is quite high, and the technique is excellent.  Note the shading done in some of the clothwork.  I’m wondering if this isn’t a Zele piece from Belgium, given the different stitches and bridework used.
Provenance: San Francisco estate sale.
Date:  ~1900
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller points out some breaks in the brides and small holes in the clothwork.
Soilage: Seller says it was ‘freshly hand laundered’, but gives no details on the process.  Seller also cites a few very light spots.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles.  Not quite crisp, might be from the recent or a past wash.

291623287965   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/nw545p7 63″ (160cm) OF BRUSSELS DUCHESSE DE BRUGES HAND MADE LACE – 32″ (7.5cm) Deep
Size: 3″ x 63″ without engrelure
Starting Price: £12.00
Auction ends: November 30, 2015, 12:57 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller garden*hill, Reading, United Kingdom
Comments: A narrow border of, well, the woven tallies would speak more toward Honiton. But the shapes of the leaves, the lack of roses and the square picoted brides are more a Belgian Duchesse de Bruges.  Then again, some of the way the curls are done in motifs look more Devon. I’m not sure on this one, but I’m leaning toward England.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Looks like both ends are cut, engrelure added.
Damage: Some of the flowers missing along the lower edge, along four repeats at the beginning of the border.
Soilage: Some localized brown spots.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles.

191744793368   Sold for £16.00, 3 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/nuje5cu antique lace cuffs
Size: Not given.
Starting Price: $35.00, $75.00 Buy-it-Now
Auction ends: November 30, 2015, 2:08 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller eb330, Boston, New York, United States (Boston isn’t in New York, but that’s what it says).
Comments: A set of Carrickmacross guipure cuffs – there is a photo of only one. The looped picots border the edges and all motifs.  The motifs are a little rough in design. Note the long fillings, can’t see them clearly enough to say how they were made.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Can’t see the second cuff. Both are sewn onto paper.
Damage: General wear, and some separations along the edge.
Soilage: Seller cites minor discoloration.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles.

121822820762   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/jesblpf Exquisitely Fine Handcrafted Antique Irish Lace Crochet Collar, Large Circa 1850
Size: Not given.
Starting Price: $49.00, $100.00 Buy-it-Now
Auction ends: November 30, 2015, 3:33 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller sitebury, Cincinnati, Ohio, United States
Comments: An Irish Crochet deep collar with a lighter Rose of Sharon pattern along the neck edge, larger motifs on the outside edge. This can be an effective combination, and works pretty well here. Picoted square mesh in both sections – I can’t see how the picots are made.  Good raised work in the roses and centers of some flowers. The large motifs include shamrocks, leaves, roses and some unusual flowers.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  3rd quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Occasional broken bride.
Soilage: Hard to tell, but I think there’s some slight discoloration around the neckline.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles.

231762992884   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/z8us296 Antique 19th C Lot of Handmade Machine Lace Trim & Collars Tambour Irish Crochet
Size: Not given.
Starting Price: $9.99
Auction ends: December 1, 2015, 10:24 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller crepesuz-zq, Brooklyn, New York, United States
Comments: There are several pieces in this lot, including some Carrickmacross and Irish Crochet, and a good Schiffli Gros Point copy. But the one I’d like to talk about is the small-motif Irish Crochet collar. There is one small 5-leaf motif, along with some smaller flowers with raised ring centers.  Irregular picoted brides (I can’t tell how the picots are made). There is an attempt to preserve the often-seen 3-part pinwheel arrangement; look closely and you can spot it.  Three 5-leaf motifs on stalks with a raised ring flower at the center.  I’ve seen this kind of work in the past and find it quite interesting.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles.

191745571674   Sold for $81.00, 6 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/nkn9onb 36 ins antique/vintage Brussels applique and needle lace border
Size: 2.75″ x 36″
Starting Price: £10.00
Auction ends: December 1, 2015, 11:13 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A border of combined bobbin and needlelace applique on machine net.  It’s reasonably complex for a narrow piece; note the small decorative ‘mode’ fillings along the bottom bobbin-made motifs. These alternate with a needlelace leave.  There are three bands of decoration, that probably look better when the piece is ruffled than they do laid out flat.  Good fine technique throughout.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Cut both ends.
Damage: A few broken threads in the fillings. Some small holes in the tulle, a few breaks in the engrelure.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles.

331716706194   Sold for £11.10, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/napybkb Handmade Vintage Point de Paris swan and flower pot lace centerpiece
Size: 14″ x 11″ (lace ~2″ deep)
Starting Price: £42.00
Auction ends: December 1, 2015, 12:36 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller lacemerchant, Whiting, Indiana, United States
Comments: We don’t see a lot of Point de Paris as we understand it today until about 1900.  I think it must have grown out of the older pottenkant laces which also had a fond chant ground variation. This piece is part of a table linen set, and have not only the flowerpot but also swan figures, reflecting that possible earlier history.  Good technical work, although the design is not all that refined.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  ~1900
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Seller cites an ivory color.
Finish: Vertical fold crease, some light creasing in the center cloth.

131660466321   No bids.

http://tinyurl.com/jhhf77j Antique/vintage Brussels applique lace shawl collar
http://tinyurl.com/o7fnjzr Antique/vintage Brussels applique lace tucker
Size: Not given.
Starting Price: £180.00, £50.00
Auction ends: December 2, 2015, 11:12 AM PST
December 3 2015, 11:12 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: These two piece match. The first is an impressive shawl collar of Brussels bobbinlace applique on machine net.  Good romantic floral design, small motifs showing some imagination in design, done in excellent technique. Needle-made fillings are basically rows of knots with a few plain and picoted rings.
The second is rather an odd shape, but looks original. As the seller says, it is probably some kind of neck decoration, but I don’t know if it is meant to be attached to the collar. The design is slightly simpler than the collar, but they still match.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  3rd quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: For both – A few pinholes in the mesh. Some repairs to the tulle.
Looks like one break between motifs on the neck-edge side near one tip of the collar.
Soilage: Seller cites some brown age marks to the front on the collar, and brown age marks at the front of the border.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

231764787748  Sold for £180.00, 1 bidder.
231765758343   Sold for £51.00, 2 bidders.

http://tinyurl.com/oquj4yt Rare Museum Quality 100 % Linen Antique Handkerchief Gupure Lace Border
Size: 12.5″ x 12″
Starting Price: $210.00 Buy-it-Now
Auction ends: December 5, 2015, 12:48 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller simonedar, Sandusky, Ohio, United States
Comments: I’m puzzled by this one. The thread looks like silk, but it doesn’t seem to be a Maltese piece (although that’s a possibility). Note the unusual ground, sort of a Dieppe variation, with really nicely done square tallies. And there’s a kind of honeycomb pattern along the outer edge. I’m thinking it might be a French piece from around Le Puy.  Or maybe an Eastern European piece, perhaps even Russian?
11/29/15 – I just had a very welcome note from a LaceNews reader placing this in a category she calls “Erzgebirge and Eastwards”. She’s seen this in silk and in patterns from lace schools from c. 1900 and a bit into the 20th c.
Provenance: From a 3 album collection that the seller acquired from Mr. Sigmund Sternfeld in the 1980’s. He got them at a museum auction in New York City.
Date:  ~1900
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creases or winkles.

141820837659   No bids.

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Auction: Kerry Taylor Auctions, Passion for Fashion – December 8, 2015

Passion for Fashion
Date: Tuesday, December 8, 2015
Time: 14:00
Place: Kerry Taylor Auctions, Ltd.
249-253 Long Lane, Bermondsey, London, SE1 4PR
Map:
Viewings: Sunday, December 6, 2015 – 12:00 to 16:00
Monday, December 7, 2015 – 9:00 to 17:00
Tuesday, December 8, 2015 – 9:00 to 12:00
Web Catalog:  http://tinyurl.com/pf566ma http://tinyurl.com/pdzqdyp
Live Auctioneer site: http://tinyurl.com/px47we7
Phone: +44 [0]208 676 4600
Fax: +44 [0]203 137 0112
Email: info@kerrytaylorauctions.com

The lot of interest is #13, the collar of Milanese said to have been worn by Charles I on the scaffold (January 30, 1649). The provenance for this piece can be traced back to a purchase from Christie’s, October 18, 1983, lot 52.  Further back to the exhibition “Royal House of Stuarts” (which occurred in 1889 at the New Gallery in London), it was item #374.
OK. Let’s take a closer look at this.  The original catalog of the 1889 exhibition is available online in several places such as http://tinyurl.com/qbqkhf6, and there appears to be an updated version, http://tinyurl.com/q8j3ujg.  If you look at item 374 in the original catalog, it says, “Glove of Charles I., worn by the king on the scaffold. Lent by V. F. Bennett-Stanford, Esq.”   No mention of a collar.  However the second version adds an item  No. 374*  described as “Lace collar worn by Charles I. on the scaffold. Lent by George Somes, Esq.”  Item 376, originally described as a cap not worn on the scaffold, suddenly adds a 376* cap worn on the scaffold, also lent by George Somes, Esq. It’s a little curious but let’s assume that item 374* is the one now  up for auction, and that the catalog may have been revised for some late additions to the exhibition (There are several other items with a * in the later catalog that are not present in the first catalog).
But let’s look at the form of the collar, which is a ‘bib fronted band’ with what appears to be the original linen collar and tassels. It is incredibly rare that such a piece would survive intact, whether worn by Charles I or not.  Just looking at this piece gives wonderful clues as to how these items were fitted to the collar (I have one without the original fittings in my own collection which is now being mounted for exhibition at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. Getting it to fit properly around a manikin bust is proving difficult). Unfortunately, this is a form more typical of Charles II. Charles I is almost always depicted in portraiture with the wider ‘falling band’, see for example, the van Dyck portrait of 1635-36 http://tinyurl.com/oqvf53h.  Or he has a limp ruff as in this example from 1628 http://tinyurl.com/nbsm93p.  The last portrait of Charles I by Edward Bower completed in 1650 shows him at the time of his trial in a very simple lace-edged collar http://tinyurl.com/olch6y8. Something similar was worn by his son Charles II painted in 1653, this time with a tassel, almost a precursor to the bib-fronted band. http://tinyurl.com/p265ywz.  The full bib-fronted band seems to have developed later in the 1650’s, and Charles II is wearing an excellent example in  his coronation portrait of 1661 http://tinyurl.com/oeumtt5.
We also need to look at the lace itself. It does seem to be all in one piece.  I don’t think it is an Italian Milanese piece, the thread is too fine, and the way the curves are handled looks more Flemish or even English.  And the ground is extremely unusual, I’ve never seen anything like it. Overall, I’m reminded of the piece in figure  155 of Levey, “Lace A History”, which depicts Charles II of Spain, crowned in 1665, the same date as the lace. There are some earlier laces tending toward this style, but I don’t think you would have seen it as fully developed until the 1660’s.
Then there is historical evidence. Contemporary accounts mention that he wore two shirts so as not to get cold, and probably a knit overgarment (http://tinyurl.com/y9nuz3h) but nothing describes the collar – and there don’t appear to be any stains on the auction piece.  His clothing was immediately distributed to people at the execution.
I’ve gone on long enough – I think this is a piece dating from around 1660.

There are a few dresses made of lace in the auction, but no other single pieces.

12/9/2015 The bib fronted band sold for £3,600.00

Bidding: Bidders must register with Kerry Taylor, and bring or send proof of identity by email or fax (such as a driver’s license or passport). They may request a credit card.
If you want to use Live Auctioneers, you must register with them – this is a separate process.
– There is a 25% buyer’s premium is applied to the hammer price up to 5,000 GBP, 20% above that, and that premium is subject to the prevailing VAT rate.
– A bid slip for commission bidding is available at http://tinyurl.com/knztuao and can be faxed to the number above.
– Telephone bidding must be requested well in advance of the auction, there are a limited number of lines available.
– Online bidding can be done through Live Auctioneers.  You must register here for the auction.  Buyer’s premiums are 28% up to 50,000 GBP, 23% above that.
– Payment is due in pounds sterling at the end of the auction. They accept debit and credit cards (charges apply, contact Kerry Taylor Auctions for more information).  Cash up to 8,000 GBP only, sterling cheque and bank transfers.
Through Live Auctioneers, Visa, Mastercard, AMEX, Personal Check and Wire transfers are accepted. I don’t know if there are premiums for using those payment methods.

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Administrative: No Ebay Alerts for November 22, 2015

Apologies again, but I’m still tied up with my contract work deadline, will resume the Ebay Alerts next week.  There is an interesting item up for auction at Kerry Taylor on December 8th which I will write up shortly.

Laurie

Posted in Ebay Alerts! | 1 Comment

Administrative: No Ebay Alerts for November 15, 2015

Apologies, big deadline coming up for work, so I’m blowing off the Ebay Alerts for Sunday. Compounding the problem is the fact that Microsoft issued a systems update Wednesday night which had the effect of crashing Windows 7 Outlook email, and has messed up my computer for several days. MS did issue a fix, so things are back to normal, although I have some catching up to do.
Take a look at the offerings of seller eastayton (a.k.a. Anne Swift), who is showing some excellent pieces.  I’ll resume next week.
And I’ll also start getting back to posting events very soon.  My ‘vacation’ has gone on long enough.

Laurie

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Ebay Alerts! Twenty-nine items – November 8, 2015

http://tinyurl.com/pxseqhb 12 Carrickmacross Irish Lace PLacemats Doilies Hand Work Shamrock Thistle Rose
Size: Not given.
Starting Price: $1,599.00 Buy-it-Now or Make Offer
Auction ends: November 8, 2015 6:15 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller mellow44, Tiverton, Rhode Island, United States
Comments: Carrickmacross applique is not the first thing you think of for placemats, but here is a set of 12. Note the prominent looped border, along with varied needlerun fillings. There is a little bride work, and the design has shamrocks, thistles, and other flowers. The style looks a little later, and the motifs fairly simple.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  Mid 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: I think I see some very small repairs, might be a trick of the light, or something done in the manufacturing process.
Soilage: Looks clean in this lighting.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.  Look unused.

331694780947

http://tinyurl.com/omnl7ea Antique/vintage Brussels Point de Gaze lace bertha
Size: Neckline 40″, 7″ deep.
Starting Price: £60.00
Auction ends: November 8, 2015 11:29 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A Point de Gaze bertha with raised petal roses. The motifs are fairly conventional, arranged in quite an elegant design.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller cites scattered small holes and repairs.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Not perfectly crisp, but that’s minor. Might have been washed in the past.

231738987929

http://tinyurl.com/nt6q2gj Antique/vintage Brussels Duchesse lace collar/dress front
Size: Neckline 18″, 11″ front length
Starting Price: £20.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 10:40 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller derbeatle, Cheltenham, United Kingdom
Comments: A collar of Duchesse de Bruges.  Conventional motifs, nicely arranged.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller notes that neck edge is a little worn.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Looks like a soft fold crease center back.

331698197595

http://tinyurl.com/nj4zcev TWO 48″ (122CM) LENGTHS OF BRUSSELS APPLIQUE LACE FLOUNCE ON MACHINE NET
Size: 8″ x 48″ for both.
Starting Price: £26.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 12:03 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller garden*hill, Reading, United Kingdom
Comments: Two pieces of a flounce of Brussels bobbinlace applique on machine net. The design is quite light with small motifs, and small circular ‘esprits’ in the ground. Not sure how the esprits are made. I can’t find any needlelace elements in this piece.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  2nd half 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller notes that neck edge is a little worn.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Looks like a soft fold crease center back.

191727465437

http://tinyurl.com/olr2opu Beautiful antique Honiton bobbin lace hanky handkerchief -English wedding lace
Size: 33 cm x 33 cm
Starting Price: £29.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 11:40 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller hedgehogpear, BN8, United Kingdom
Comments: A Honiton guipure handkerchief. Snails/slugs style, delicately done, especially the ‘fern’ leaves in two corners. These are what really makes the piece.   Note the needle-made brides wound around 4 connecting threads.  Good tally leadwork fillings.  An interesting piece.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c, maybe into the 20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller cites a small hole in the cloth.  One area of 10-stick separated from a motif on the left edge.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Horizontal & vertical fold lines. Slight creasing of some motifs on the outer edge.

151872292678

http://tinyurl.com/p9khye3 A VICTORIAN BRUSSELS DUCHESSE LACE LAPPET FRONT COLLAR WITH POINT DE GAZE PANELS
Size: 18″ neckline, 3″ center back depth.
Starting Price: £26.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 11:42 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller garden*hill, Reading, United Kingdom
Comments: A collar of Duchesse de Bruxelles with raised petal roses in the two Point de Gaze inserts. No raised work in the bobbinlace. Conventional design.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: One tiny red spot, one small repair. Pt d G mesh looks good.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: No obvious creasing or wrinkles.

191727460139

http://tinyurl.com/phqge2l Beautiful Antique Brussels Point de Gaze lace hanky handkerchief – wedding hanky
Size: 32 cm square
Starting Price: £24.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 11:45 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller hedgehogpear, BN8, United Kingdom
Comments: An unusual Point de Gaze handkerchief. The edge is quite narrow, with lots of decorative ‘mode’ fillings.  No flowers that could have raised petals. It’s an interesting way to fill a narrow border.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: A few small holes and pinholes in the mesh. One tiny hole in the cloth.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish: Horizontal and vertical fold creases.

151872300610

http://tinyurl.com/ogh8v7z VICTORIAN CARRICKMACROSS LACE RECTANGULAR SHAWL OR VEIL – 80″ (204cm) Long
http://tinyurl.com/p7l8jmj A 1.88 METRE FLOUNCE OF CARRICKMACROSS APPLIQUE LACE – 21 1/2″ (55 cm) Deep
Size: ~80″ x 75″, 21.5″ x 1.88 meters
Starting Price: £60.00, £8.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 12:05 PM PST
November 9, 2015 12:11 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller garden*hill, Reading, United Kingdom
Comments: A square shawl of Carrickmacross applique, and a matching section of a flounce. Fairly elaborate floral design with needlerun fillings, and note the spiky picots along the outer edge.  This is sometimes seen as an alternative to the larger looped picots.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None on the veil, flounce is extensively cut.
Damage: Shawl: Small holes in the ground, 3 repairs.  Flounce:  large holes cut into the piece.
Soilage: Some localized rust spotting.
Finish: Shawl needs blocking to recover square shape.

191727456974   191727456974a   191727961523

http://tinyurl.com/nch6kte A VICTORIAN HONITON APPLIQUE LACE BERTHA COLLAR ON A MACHINE TULLE GROUND
Size: 44″ neckline, 8.75″ center back depth.
Starting Price: £10.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 1:06 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller garden*hill, Reading, United Kingdom
Comments: A rectangular scarf of Honiton applique on machine net.  It works as a collar, however it doesn’t have the larger outer edge typical of a bertha. Snails/slugs style, with the design nicely massed on the lower border.  Good woven tally leadworks, mostly of one kind.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Small holes and pinholes in the tulle.
Soilage: Looks beige in color in this lighting.
Finish: No obvious creases or wrinkles.

191728053583   191728053583a

http://tinyurl.com/pvbaeak A VICTORIAN HONITON APPLIQUE LACE TRIANGULAR SHAWL ON MACHINE MADE GROUND
Size: ~103″ x 41.5″
Starting Price: £20.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 1:21 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller garden*hill, Reading, United Kingdom
Comments: A triangular shawl of Honiton applique on machine net.  The motifs are a bit more advanced than snails/slugs, large massed floral spray in the lower center. Wider border of flowers around the lower edge, narrower at the top, and small sprigs are used in the ground. This triangular form for Honiton applique is a bit unusual.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  3rd quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Tear in the tulle with failed repair at one end. Small holes and pinholes in the mesh throughout. Some holes repaired.
Soilage: Seems a little beige in color in this lighting.
Finish: One fold crease that I can see, some minor wrinkling.

191728049693

http://tinyurl.com/nr7vcun A VICTORIAN HANDKERCHIEF WITH A RUSSIAN OR SIMILAR BOBBIN LACE BORDER
Size: 16″ square
Starting Price: £8.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 1:31 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller garden*hill, Reading, United Kingdom
Comments: A handkerchief with a tape lace border, perhaps Russian Yelets.  I don’t think it’s Idria or Italian.  There’s a lace museum in Yelets http://tinyurl.com/p9ouv5t. Recent photos of this lace look more like Vologda, but I think the more traditional form is this narrow, dense tape.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  20th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller cites some small holes in the cloth.
Soilage: Light red staining.
Finish: A little wrinkled.

191727969517

http://tinyurl.com/nma6arn ANTIQUE LACE-EARLY VENETIAN GROS POINT LACE
Size: 3.5″ x (23″ and 25″)
Starting Price: $150.00
Auction ends: November 9, 2015 3:25 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller mithya, New York, United States
Comments: A 19th c Gros Point copy.  The thread looks linen.  Very hard to tell where this might have been made – Italy, France, Belgium, Ireland.  Someday I’ll write a book on the subject.  It does have some interesting decoration in the clothwork, and I like the heavy round rings in the middle of the brides. That kind of seems like a Belgian technique.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  later 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Can’t see the ends to tell if they are cut, but I assume so.
Damage: Seller cites a few openings.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish:  No obvious creases or wrinkles, but there’s no photo of the complete pieces.

151875410676

http://tinyurl.com/pvxjhl8 Dogs Birds and Butterflies in Handmade Point de Paris bobbin lace Large round
Size: 26″ diameter, lace 5″ deep.
Starting Price: $325.00
Auction ends: November 10, 2015 12:15 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller lacemerchant, Whiting, Indiana, United States
Comments: A table cover edged with figural Point de Paris, including birds in trees and a dog. That might be a butterfly between the facing birds, but I’m not sure. This type of figural work is not unusual in Point de Paris, especially in table linens.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  ~1900
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Seller cites deep ivory white color.
Finish:  A little creasing and wrinkling, especially in the center cloth.

141819213081

http://tinyurl.com/oc7mdte Spectacular Victorian Point de Venise needle lace edging Mint condition COLLECT
Size: 3.5″ without engrelure, x ~30″
Starting Price: $185.00
Auction ends: November 10, 2015 3:09 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller lacemerchant, Whiting, Indiana, United States
Comments: Another 19th c Gros Point copy. This one has very fine thread, good decorative filings and a lot of fillings that look a little ‘Point de Gaze’ in technique.  So I’m guessing Belgian. However the cordonnets are tightly buttonholed, which might mean Austria.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Cut both ends, engrelure added.
Damage: Seller cites a couple of minor breaks.
Soilage: Seller cites deep ivory white color, and a few minor stains that I can’t find.
Finish:  No obvious creases or wrinkles.

141819358636

http://tinyurl.com/ovllpgf RARE, UNUSUAL Antique 1800s Needlepoint Lace HANDKERCHIEF Brussels POINT de GAZE
Size: ~15″ square
Starting Price: $395.00 Buy-it-Now
Auction ends: November 10, 2015 7:15 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller things*most*delightful, Sacramento, California, United States
Comments: A Point de Gaze handkerchief, no raised work.  The striped pattern is occasionally seen in this lace, and note the single looped picots around the outer edge. The design is quite unusual, even to the bellflowers anchoring the rest of the pattern. In pieces like this there is often an emphasis on decorative ‘mode’ fillings, seen here in the corners. The little 4-petaled buds in the strips are quite unusual.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  2nd half 19th century.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: A few pinholes in the mesh. One break middle of the right side.
Soilage: Some localized red staining.
Finish:  No obvious creases or wrinkles.

151846067750

http://tinyurl.com/o3xblo6 MAGNIFICENT Antique Brussels Lace Point de Gaze Roses Heirloom Wedding Veil~1890
Size: 105″ x 65″, blusher veil” 20 – not sure what that is.
Starting Price: £1,500.00 Buy-it-Now
Auction ends: November 10, 2015 7:15 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller dollyslace, Manchester, United Kingdom
Comments: A Brussels bobbin and needlelace oval bridal veil applique on machine net.  The roses are Point de Gaze with raised petals (nicely done with diamond widows in the petals), and elaborate center fillings. There is one major flower spray in the train area, with a floral border, wider at the back and narrower at the front.  Small flower sprays and dots decorate the main tulle area.
I’m not wild about the treatment of the pointed leaves – they just look tied off at the points with a little fluffy end of the gimp – and frankly, a little ‘Princesse’. But I think they are all handmade.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  ~1900.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Seller cites 2 minor pinholes, one small and one tiny repair.
Soilage: Seller cites “antique ivory’ color.  One small age mark.
Finish:  No obvious creases or wrinkles.  Good drape to the tulle.

281825757909

http://tinyurl.com/ozlhptj Antique 18th cent Flemish Brabant bobbin lace flounce panel 160cm x 50cm
Size: 50 cm x 160 cm
Starting Price: £49.00
Auction ends: November 11, 2015 11:44 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller hedgehogpear, BN8, United Kingdom
Comments: A Brussels bobbinlace with bride ground, about 1730. This is not Brabant style, but has considerable sophistication and technical excellence. It looks cut at the top, and there appears to be separate piece of slightly darker color joined along the bottom third. There is also a separate piece tacked on both ends. All these appear to have come from different original pieces. Quiet an interesting study for an assembled piece.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  ~1730
Condition:
Modifications: Assembled, cut ends, 3 major joins, engrelure added.
Damage: Fraying and broken brides – severity depends on which section you are looking at.
Soilage: Localized age spotting throughout.
Finish:  Fold creases evident.

161875816406

http://tinyurl.com/qjyt7ta Extraordinary late 18th C. SET handmade Valenciennes PAIR OF LAPPET and FRILL
Size: lappets: 28″ x 4.75″ to 3.5″.  Edging 3″ x ~1-1/3 yards.
Starting Price: £49.00
Auction ends: November 11, 2015 12:40 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller lacemerchant, Whiting, Indiana, United States
Comments: A pair of round hole Valenciennes lappets with matching capback frill, although as in similar sets, the frill is not attached.  Which makes this set a rare survivor.  The delicate thin design is sometimes known as Valenciennes Anglaise, probably a marketing name. It is quite a distinct style, often seen in narrow edgings.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  late 18th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Edging cut both ends and secured, engrelure added. I have a feeling the picoted edge is a later addition.  The lappets look in original condition, although it would help if there were a closeup of the upper ends.
Damage: Lappets a little frayed along the edges. Occasional very minor pinhole and pulls in the mesh.
Soilage: Seller cites ivory color. There appear to be a few small red spots in the edging.
Finish:  Vertical fold creases in the edging, creases throughout the lappets.

131644937329

http://tinyurl.com/once8kk 6.7 yds Antique French Brussels Point de Gaze Handmade Lace 242″ L X 3.5″ W
Size:3.5″ x 242″
Starting Price: $574.98
Auction ends: November 11, 2015 6:18 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller cherubim_gates, Raleigh, North Carolina, United States
Comments: Belgian Point de Gaze long border, no raised work. There’s a short repeat of three asymmetric leaves with two flowers below, then a more vertical element with hanging leaves (with and 8-petaled decorative ‘mode’). Some heavy rings in flower centers. And interesting piece with a rather atypical design, but well suited for ruffling.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  2nd half 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Not sure if the end I can see has been cut – it might be a natural termination.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.  Looks unused.
Soilage: Seller cites ivory color. There appear to be a few small red spots in the edging.
Finish:  No obvious creases or winkles.

161879060579

http://tinyurl.com/pckscj5 DELICATE ANTIQUE BLACK SILK CHANTILLY LACE LAPPET COLLAR SCARF JABOT
Size: 5″ x 43″
Starting Price: $45.00
Auction ends: November 11, 2015 6:24 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller rosietoesmac, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States
Comments: A Chantilly lappet scarf, no ombre work. The floral design is quite effective with little cartouches containing a flowerpot at the ends and single spray father up.  Good example of the form.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Slight fraying along edges.
Soilage: Looks clean but hard to tell with black lace.
Finish:  No obvious creases or winkles.

181922892217

http://tinyurl.com/pxny7v2 ANTIQUE LACE VALENCIENNES BOBBIN LACE 151″ ROUND MESH GROUND
Size: 1.5″ x 151″
Starting Price: $25.00
Auction ends: November 11, 2015 6:30 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller rosietoesmac, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States
Comments: I especially wanted to review this narrow round-hole Valenciennes edge because of the similarity in design to the lappet/frill set above. This simple lace is a favorite of mine, especially when it is made in very fine thread, and you usually find it with quite a straight edge.  Similar patterns are also made with the square mesh, indicating that the style survived well into the 19th c.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  1st half 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Both ends cut.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Seller cites light discoloration at one end.
Finish:  No obvious creases or winkles.

181922892291

http://tinyurl.com/qa48hae DELICATE ANTIQUE BLACK SILK CHANTILLY LACE SHORT VEIL HEADDRESS SCARF COLLAR
Size: 35″ x 16″
Starting Price: $45.00
Auction ends: November 11, 2015 6:36 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller rosietoesmac, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States
Comments: A semi-circular Chantilly hat veil. Fairly elaborate with a dense pattern of esprits in the ground, and note the underline of flowers just below the top edge. Quite a effective as well as practical design for an item like this. Hard to tell if it is French or Belgian – I’m guessing France.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  2nd half 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None
Damage: Occasional pinhole in the mesh and broken thread – minor.
Soilage: Looks clean but hard to tell with black lace.
Finish:  No obvious creases or winkles.

181922892364   181922892364a

http://tinyurl.com/namw6ws ANTIQUE LACE BELGIUM BRUSSELS LAPPET POINT DE GAZE ROSES FLOWER SCARF JAOBT COL
Size: 5.25″ x 56.5″
Starting Price: $45.00
Auction ends: November 11, 2015 6:39 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller rosietoesmac, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States
Comments: A narrow scarf of Point d’Angleterre – meaning a pieced bobbinlace with a Point de Gaze ground. The ends do contain a more traditional Point de Gaze insert – no raised work. There is a little raised work on halfstitch background in some of the strapwork. This type of lace often has a more sophisticated design than related Duchesse, and this example has a very nice presence.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  2nd half 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None
Damage: Seller cites a small split alongside one leaf in the border. Mesh looks good.
Soilage: Seller cites some areas of light discoloration.
Finish:  No obvious creases or winkles.

181922892396

http://tinyurl.com/prtlzcl ANTIQUE LACE- CIRCA 18THC. MECHLIN LACE LAPPET
Size: Not given.
Starting Price: $45.00 with reserve
Auction ends: November 12, 2015 2:25 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller mithya, New York, United States
Comments: A lappet set of Mechlin, Louis XV design with fond de glace.  It has seen better days, but is an excellent example of this style.  The motifs are a little blocky, typical of Mechlin of this period.  Note the quatrafoil fillings in some areas.  Seller is correct, it’s finer than it looks in the photos.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  mid 18th c.
Condition:
Modifications: Looks like they are cut at the top and joined.  Picot edging is a later addition.
Damage: Numerous holes in the mesh of various sizes.  Some pulls in the mesh and small repairs. Broken threads in the toile and some fillings.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish:  vertical fold creases evident.

391314589085

http://tinyurl.com/q7dbfgy ANTIQUE LACE-CIRCA 16-17THC.,RARE VENETIAN RETICELLA AND PUNT IN ARIA LACE
Size: ~10″ x 54.5″
Starting Price: $45.00 with reserve
Auction ends: November 12, 2015 2:12 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller mithya, New York, United States
Comments: A Punto in Aria border with deep scallops, with some Genoese bobbinlace.  One thing to me that argues for an early date is the framework of the piece – the heavy horizontal lines which divide the three sections in the top part. These appear to be woven braids, which is a technique you see in early Punto in Aria.  It gives the impression of the original cutwork cloth used in Reticella, but is more flexible. It appears to be used in the lower scallops also. The photos are a little fuzzy in this area, but I’m pretty sure the outside edge of the scallops is Genoese bobbinlace – note the woven leaves.
It is always difficult to date something like this, and I wish there were more closeups. But provisionally I’ll call it early.  There are a few things that bother me, like how the scalloped border doesn’t really match the upper border, and isn’t really aligned with the main design.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  after 1600
Condition:
Modifications: Cut one end, can’t see the other end.
Damage: Seller cites a few openings near one end, and if that’s all, it is unusual for an early piece. Might be a warning sign.
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish:  No obvious creases or wrinkles.

391315101279

http://tinyurl.com/pgprv7m ANTIQUE LACE-CIRCA 1700’s, FLEMISH “POTTEN KANT” LACE
Size: 3″ x 26″
Starting Price: $45.00 with reserve
Auction ends: November 12, 2015 2:54 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller mithya, New York, United States
Comments: A Flemish Pottenkant insertion which looks more in the Mechlin technique with an elaborate snowflake-variation ground. I could probably track it down but my entire library is in boxes in a new storage facility, and it’s getting late.  The symmetric ‘flowerpot’ design, the straight edges of the piece, are enough to put it in the pottenkant style class, but I think the piece is being shown upside down since the picoted border is at the top.  I’m more inclined to put it in the Mechlin category.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  1st half 1700’s.
Condition:
Modifications: Can’t see the ends to tell if they are cut.  Piece is sewn to tissue.  Straight top edge treatment is a bit confusing.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos .
Soilage: Looks clean.
Finish:  Some creasing.

391315129470

http://tinyurl.com/ozg9a93 ANTIQUE LACE SUPERB BRUSSELS POINT DE GAZE SHAWL BRIDAL c. 1880 19TH CENTURY
Size: 19″ x 94.5″
Starting Price: $650.00
Auction ends: November 12, 2015 7:38 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller zukhbaia, Brooklyn, New York, United States
Comments: A rectangular shawl of Brussels Duchesse. Double raised petal roses in the Point de Gaze inserts, with diamond windows in the petals. Great photos of the back of the roses showing a little known technique of forming a base for the raised petals. Good rows of decorative ‘mode’ fillings, although not much variation. No raised work in the bobbinlace, which is of conventional Duchesse design.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  2nd half 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: None.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos. PtdG mesh looks good.
Soilage: Seller cites ivory/light beige color, and some very small stains.
Finish:  No obvious creases or wrinkles.

331701030654   331701030654a

http://tinyurl.com/oyw9k9q ANTIQUE LACE SUPERB BRUSSELS POINT DE GAZE TRIM BRIDAL c. 1880 19TH CENTURY
Size: 5.5″ x 161″
Starting Price: $450.00
Auction ends: November 12, 2015 7:58 PM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller zukhbaia, Brooklyn, New York, United States
Comments: A long Point de Gaze border – note the multiple raised petals in the roses. And how they are a little ‘cup’ shaped, sign of a particular manufacture whose name we don’t know. The back view has the same structure supporting the raised petals as in the previous piece. Slightly more naturalistic design than usual, although the motifs are a bit simple.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  2nd half 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: The ends might be naturally terminated.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos. PtdG mesh looks good.
Soilage: Seller cites ivory/light beige color, and some very small stains.
Finish:  No obvious creases or wrinkles.

331701043191

http://tinyurl.com/ont6gnw antique Chantilly lace dress front ornament fichu shawl long lappets civil war
Size: lappets 47″ and 46″, complete length 140″.  Center back depth 13.5″
Starting Price: $75.00
Auction ends: November 13, 2015 10:54 AM PST
Offered by: Ebay seller atelier1900, Gaillard, France
Comments: A Chantilly deep collar with frill around the upper part and long, wide hanging lappets.  There’s a lot of assembly in this piece, and similar examples usually have more shaped lappets. Still, the design as shown on the manikin and possibility for draping are interesting.
Provenance: None cited.
Date:  4th quarter 19th c.
Condition:
Modifications: An assembled piece.
Damage: Nothing obvious from the photos.
Soilage: Looks clean, but hard to tell with black lace.
Finish:  No obvious creases or wrinkles.

401022908892

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