LaceNews down for a week

I won’t be posting anything to LaceNews until November 1st, because I’m going to Spain! And searching out lace when I get off from work.   Apologies to people with things in process for the blog – but 4 trips in 5 weeks for work is getting a little bit too much.
Laurie

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Ebay Alerts! Four Items – October 20, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/2cdxwge 19THC GORGEOUS WHITE CHANTILLY? HAND MIXED LACE SCARF
Current offer: $34.33, 2 bids. Reserve not made
Auction ends: Oct 25, 2010 08:25:27 PDT
Offered by: Carolyn Forbes, Ebay seller heartnsoul1, New England, USA
Comments: This is not white Chantilly, but a really beautiful piece of Valenciennes de Gand. This lace is a pieced bobbinlace, with individual motifs backed with an unusual square mesh. The mesh is plaited on each side with only three threads. The densely worked motifs could be made in quantity and assembled as desired when orders came in.  Later examples often include raised work. The technique has never been adequately described in modern lace technique literature. Val de Gand was developed in Ghent and the technique was patented in 1852 by Sister Marie Joseph, Virginie Vrancken, director of an orphanage lace school in Ghent. It continued to be made into the late 19th century.

Sold for $667.00

http://tinyurl.com/2cnczvn 19THC EXQUISITE FRENCH WHITE WORK EMB. VAL LACE HANKIE
Current offer: $24.99, 0 bids. Reserve not made
Auction ends: Oct 25, 2010 08:25:24 PDT
Offered by: Carolyn Forbes, Ebay seller heartnsoul1, New England, USA
Comments: A very elaborate whitework hanky edged with Valenciennes lace. These small heavily embroidered pieces are often presented this way. The work is French ‘broiderie en blanche’, and incorporates many of the same ornamental jours as Alencon lace It is easy to see why lace collectors often include whitework embroidery in their collections. When I studied in Alencon in 1980, the Atelier made lace as well as white and colored embroidery like this. I tried to learn a bit of the whitework.  It is very difficult, if your fingers won’t bend quite the right way, then you will be hopeless at the embroidery. I was great at the lace, and hopeless with the embroidery.

Sold for $356.02

http://tinyurl.com/25jxq7u Spellewerkster in OUD Vlaams aardewerk 22 cm
Current offer: $35.00, 0 bids.
Auction ends: Oct 25, 2010 02:01:10 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller stekveutel, Tourhout, Belgium
Comments: Vlaams Aardewerk (Flemish Pottery) lacemaker, 8.7″ high, which is quite large. Unknown maker.  A bit of the chair seems to have been repaired, but otherwise good condition.

Sold for 41.50 EUR

http://tinyurl.com/2djxpyt VINTAGE RARE TOP QUALITY 20″ ROUND NANDUTI LACE DOILY
Current offer: $29.95, 1 bid.
Auction ends: Oct 25, 2010 10:22:39 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller purpletigerblue, Colorado, USA
Comments: Looks like a very nice ñanduti doily, interesting medallions, good groundwork. The piece is quite large which makes me think the work might be a bit loosely done.

Sold for $40.99

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Collecting: Spanish Felt Lacemakers


These two figures are by the most famous of the felt doll makers, Klumpe. Note the inverted ‘V’ shaped eybrows, typical of Klumpe figures. The maker’s tag on any of the molded felt lacemaker figures rarely survives.  An exception is the square Klumpe sticker just visible at the right side of the bottom of the skirt in the first figure. Both are ~11″ tall. The costumes probably represent Valencia.

In Spain, my nomination for the best lacemaking figures goes hands down to the felt lacemakers. Molded felt character dolls were developed in Barcelona for the tourist trade starting in 1952, with high quality products produced through the 1960’s. Some of lesser quality were made in the early ’70s. Figures for many characters were made, and the lacemaker is fairly rare. Most are less than 12 inches high, with painted features and a floss or mohair wig. Each of the thirteen Barcelona firms producing these dolls had very distinctive designs, and doll collectors have only recently recognized the value of these pieces.  Although most of the figures seen today are of small size and formally posed, there are variations. I remember once seeing a  felt lacemaker at auction of a very large size, quite soft, meant as a little girl’s toy.

The lacemaker is dressed in a very detailed costume, representing various Spanish provinces. Much detailed work has gone into making the shoes, net for gloves and hair, and the jewelery. Although several seem to be dancing, the opinion of contacts in Spain is that they are simply interesting poses incorporating a lace pillow. No one has been able to discover a traditional Spanish lacemaker’s dance. The lacemaker seems to owe something in the pose to the Flamenco dancer figure, which is much easier to find.

Another well known Barcelona company is Roldan, and a probable lacemaker example is shown below. Roldan is known for quite dynamic posing of their figures, along with elaborate accessories.


This figure lacks a tag, but the small, pouty mouth is a distinguishing mark of Roldan work. She is ~9″ high, and has quite an attitude. Unfortunately moths got at her pillow at some point and the dress is a bit wrinkled. This is a rare figure. The costume is probably Catalonian.

It is easier to find figures from the Lanya company – two examples are shown below. They have red pillows, and a an alternating striped red and yellow sash, which is the pattern of the Catalonian flag.

Figures probably by Layna. They are of small size, and not quite the quality of the Klump/Roldan figures. Catalonian costumes.

Unfortunately, many fine figures are unidentified. Even more unfortunately, doll collectors themselves don’t know much about this kind of figure – hopefully research will be done in the near future. At the moment, many sellers lump the entire category of these dolls under the composite name “Klumpe/Roldan”.


Two figures by unknown makers, similar to but not exactly the same as the Layna figures above. The righthand figure is nicely balanced and stands by itself. Again, the red and yellow sash represents Catalonia.


Three excellent figures, makers unknown. The costume of the figure on the left could be from the Zamora province.  The costume of the middle figure has yet to be identified. The righthand costume probably represents Valencia.

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EbayAlerts! – Three Items – October 17, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/2eymqz6 ANTIQUE LACE PRETTY HANDMADE SHADED CHANTILLY C 1880
Current offer: $19.99 no bids. Reserve not made
Auction ends: Oct 22, 2010 15:26:46 PDT
Offered by: Paivi Roberts, Ebay seller greatlace, Paris and Palm Beach
Comments: Good length of Chantilly, excellent condition. Interesting shading in the design.

Sold for $305.00

http://tinyurl.com/23uvl3v MAGNIFICENT point de gaze Antique Lace Tablecloth Round
I just learned this is a parasol cover! 38″ diam,thx!!

Current offer: $52.00, 2 bids. Reserve not made
Auction ends: Oct 21, 2010 21:13:41 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller monicasvintagefashions, By the Sea, USA
Comments: So the seller doesn’t much know the difference between a tablecloth and a parasol cover, it’s still a good piece. Design is rather confused, and there are some condition issues in the needlelace, but these don’t come up that often.

$560.00, reserve not met.

http://tinyurl.com/2cglequ FABULOUS REFERENCE PICTURES ANTIQUE LACE 16/17C. FOLIO
Current offer: $200.00, no bids.
Auction ends: Oct 23, 2010 14:08:13 PDT
Offered by: Paivi Roberts, Ebay seller greatlace, Paris and Palm Beach
Comments: A. Calavas edited this set of photos. In fact he did a lot of large format lace portfolios, I’ve found 23 different sets so far.  They were all published under the name “Librairie des Arts Décoratifs”, from his studio at 68, rue Lafayette, Paris. But that’s not the interesting part. What Calavas is extremely famous for are  his very early erotic photographs. Must have calmed down a bit later in life, because he issued portfolios of decorative arts photos for years.  Definitely worth a post on LaceNews someday.
I think this one is missing its cardboard cover.  It is volume III in a series. I just happen to own the first two volumes.  Hmmm.

Sold for $362.00

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Ebay Alerts! Three Items – October 14, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/29oyv8u SANTON dentellière JOUGLAS signature coté MEUBLE BOIS
Current offer: EUR 35.00 no bids
Auction ends: Oct 17, 2010 10:39:16 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller petitejacqueline, location: France
Comments: I swear, I wrote the Santon piece before this was posted! Beautiful Lace Merchant figure, by Simone Jouglas, one of the finest makers. Complete with chest filled with lace.

Sold for 37.18 EUR

http://tinyurl.com/2flzyvh Lovely Antique Handmade Lace Fan Leaf
Current offer: EUR 46.56, five bids
Auction ends: Oct 19, 2010 12:00:20 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller baraud, location: Newton Abbot, UK
Comments: Nice Duchess fan leaf, seems to be in good condition.  Looks a little haphazard in design.

Sold for 59.00 GBP

http://tinyurl.com/2cgc95h ANTIQUE LACE-LOVELY BRUSSELS LACE HANDKERCHIEF
Current offer: $45.00, 1 bid, reserve not met
Auction ends: Oct 17, 2010 08:44:17 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, Ebay seller mithya, New York and London
Comments: Nice Brussels bobbinlace applique on machine net. Work seems quite fine, design OK. I’m not wild about the looped ribbon bordering the center. But good handkerchiefs of this lace are not that common.

Sold for $203.50

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Collecting: French Santon Lacemakers


Two Santons with well modeled lace pillows from the workshop of Maryse Di Landro in Aubagne. Occasionally Santons are accompanied by an accessory such as the lace-filled basket in the left-hand photo. I’ve never found two Santons by the same maker dressed identically. The figures themselves are often reused in other occupations.

My personal nomination for the best French lacemaking figure is the folk art Santon (little saint), meant to be part of a Christmas creche. Along with the Holy Family, Angels and other traditional characters, ordinary people involved in their everyday work activities are modeled. Elaborate nativity figures have been made in France for many centuries, but the more modern Santon seems to have originated with the 1792 closing of the churches during the French Revolution.  Without access to formal church displays, people started making their own creche figures at home. In 1798 Jean Louis Lagnel of Aubagnel, Provence is credited with marketing the first Santons entirely out of clay (santons d’argile).  Simone Jouglas (1908-2004) appears to have been the first to dress the clay figures. In dressed figures (santons habillé), the terra-cotta clay is usually molded for the head, forearms and hands, and lower limbs and feet – the rest is generally a padded wire frame. Today the clay elements are fired in a kiln, prior to 1900 they were air-dried, producing a more fragile product. The final product is hand painted. Many of the faces are quite detailed portraits of elderly women. The arms of the figures often seem overly long, which is an intentional effect.

Santons are primarily a tradition of Provence, which does not have a history of lace-making, but that doesn’t stop the santonnier from making them.  Three types of Santon are of interest to lace collectors. First are the bobbinlace makers – always a seated figure, although the design of the pillow and pillow stand varies greatly among makers.  Some pillows are modeled in great detail, others are only a padded square held in the lap. I have only been able to find one bobbinlace maker fashioned entirely of clay.  It was made quite recently and is shown below. The pillow here is more a Flemish design, although such pillows were used in Bailleul, near the Belgian border.


Clay lacemaker Santon, 2008, made by  les santonniers Labrousse, painted by PMC Créations.

Few santonniers have attempted the bobbin lacemaker figure. Amy Sylvette is one often found – with the name usually marked on the back of the chair. Others are not marked, and it can be a challenge to discover the maker.


Bobbin lacemakers by Amy Sylvette.


Lacemaker by PMC Créations. An interesting interpretation of the bobbinlace pillow – almost a Normandy model.

A second category is the crochet Santon. These normally hold a piece of lace, and a small piece of wire representing the crochet hook.


Left: A lovely crochet figure in traditional Breton dress – from the heart of the French crocheted lace industry. Signed on the base,  ‘La Santonierre’.
Right: A crocheting woman, but with a more elaborate, non-traditional dress.   By Yolande.


A very beautiful seated figure, which may represent a crocheter, or perhaps a Lace Merchant. The basket is full of skeins of thread. It isn’t entirely clear what she is doing, but the string attached to the doily indicates that it is unfinished. By J. Macquet.

The third class of interest to lace collectors, and the one that is easiest to find is the Lace Merchant. This is usually portrayed as a standing woman with lengths of lace draped over her arms. She sometimes carries a basket filled with lace.


Two beautifully made Lace Merchants by Simone Jouglas.


The Lace Merchant can sometimes be found with an accompanying piece of furniture, such as a chest or dresser overflowing with lace. The set on the left is by Yolande, and the one on the right is by Simone Jouglas. The soup toureen is original to the set.

Prices for lace-related Santons are generally under $100, a little higher for better items by more famous makers like Jouglas.

In 1995 the Santons de Provence were honored with a series of eight postage stamps by the French government. Monaco also issued a series of nine stamps in 1984, and an additional three per year from 1990 to 1995. Unfortunately none of these were of the lace figures.

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Special Ebay Alert! EXQUISITE AND RARE POLYCHROME LACE COLLAR – October 11, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/24ekqhm EXQUISITE AND RARE POLYCHROME LACE COLLAR
Current offer: $45.00 no bids
Auction ends: Oct 15, 2010 17:34:26 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, Ebay seller mithya, New York and London
Comments: Occasionally something will show up on Ebay that is extraordinary, and I’ll happily put out a special Ebay Alert. This collar is a wonderful example of Italian polychrome bobbinlace from the Michelangelo Jesurum factory in the late 19th century – he won a gold medal for this kind of work at the Paris Exposition of 1878.  The last time a major piece of this work came up on Ebay it went to the Retournac museum at a price of around $2500.  You can see it at:
http://www.ville-retournac.fr/musee/francais/actualites/2008/news3/news3_08d.htm
Forget those big ugly Rosepoint shawls and put your money into this.
My thanks to Nancy Neff for pointing out this piece.

$961.99 Did not meet reserve.

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Ebay Alerts! Four Items – October 10, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/2fy55zr ANTIQUE LARGE LACE COLLAR OR PELERINE – MALTESE – WHITE
Current offer: GPB 55.00 buy-it-now
Auction ends: Nov 09, 2010 11:23:21 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller hamsterhoard, Scottish Borders, UK
Comments: A nice small shawl, not terribly inspiring design, but OK price.  These pieces tend to suffer badly from being washed, not clear if this one has been.
Ask five people and  you will get five answers – is it Maltese or Beds Maltese? I’m arguing for English – given the long thing leaves, and meandering rather thin design – despite the obvious Maltese cross. You see pieces like this made very large – parasol covers, triangular shawls, etc. Someone should put the question to rest.

Did not sell.

http://tinyurl.com/274phpp ANTIQUE LACE-LOVELY MALTESE LACE COLLAR
Current offer: $19.99 no bids
Auction ends: Oct 13, 2010 17:55:32 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, Ebay seller mithya, New York and London
Comments: Nice work, I like the unusual ground. Good condition.

Did not sell.

http://tinyurl.com/26t9k52 Antique Handkerchief Blonde Silk Handmade
Current offer: GPB 57.00 buy-it-now
Auction ends: Oct 12, 2010 19:07:30 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller therookandtheraven, Santa Cruz, California
Comments: Definitely Maltese from Malta or Gozo. Traditional cream silk, nice work with Guipure flower pattern.

Sold for $50.00

http://tinyurl.com/2e5ljqz Handcarved Wooden Lace Stand
Current offer: GPB 25.00, 1 bid
Auction ends: Oct 15, 2010 09:20:47 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller cowley16, Bristol, UK
Comments: Interesting handcrafted walnut pillow stand – I’m a great admirer of fine woodwork. Not entirely clear how one attaches the pillow. I’ve written the seller, will post if I find out.

Sold for 41.00 GBP

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Lace Event – The Mercian Lace Association, Day to Make Lace and Bring and Buy – November 13, 2010

The Mercian Lace Association, Day to Make Lace / Bring and Buy
Date:
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Place:
Curdworth Village Hall
Curdworth near Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands
Time:
9:45 AM UNTIL 4.00 PM

Tickets: Members free. £6.00 non-members
Contact: Rosemary Allen, 0121 308 0518

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Lace Event: Suffolk Lacemakers Lace Day – November 13, 2010

Suffolk Lacemakers Lace Day
Date:
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Place:
The Village Hall
Wickham Market, Suffolk
Time:
10.00 AM UNTIL 4.00 PM

Tickets: £4.00 non members
Contact: Pat Hansford 01473 727953

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