Ebay Alerts! Four Items – October 3, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/2cf4d4v RETICELLA NEEDLEPOINT WITH BOBBIN LACE BORDER 17th C
Current offer:
$10.00  2 bids, reserve not met
Auction ends: Oct 09, 2010 16:00:34 PDT
Offered by: Anne Swift, Ebay seller eastayton, London
Comments: Looks like an excellent piece of good length and width. The Genoa-like bobbin border is a good match for the Reticella cutwork.

$120.27, Did not meet the reserve.

http://tinyurl.com/2aaadgk CHANTILLY HAND MADE LACE FAN WITH BOX 19th CENTURY
Current offer:
$31.00  3 bids, reserve not met
Auction ends: Oct 09, 2010 15:45:09 PDT
Offered by: Anne Swift, Ebay seller eastayton, London
Comments: Very nice fan, good condition, pierced tortise-shell sticks, original box with seller’s label. A very complete package.  Assuming the tortise-shell is real, be certain to check with a customs broker for restrictions on tortoise-shell exports and imports.

Sold for $395.00

http://tinyurl.com/2c9pvoa 184″ NEEDLEPOINT TABLECLOTH W/ 24 NAPKINS
Current offer: $200.00  6 bids, reserve not met
Auction ends: Oct 04, 2010 17:10:28 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, Ebay seller mithya, London and New York
Comments: A very big tablecloth, fine condition. Pieces like this with figural work often come from Belgium, however without specific attribution, it’s difficult to tell.

Sold for $1,525.00

http://tinyurl.com/2652y9o CENTRO TAVOLA… lavorato a tombolo
Current offer: Eur 9.99  1 bids
Auction ends: 07 Oct 2010 12:01:51 CEST
Offered by: Ebay seller stefi_aa, Verona, Italy
Comments: This piece is being sold on Italian Ebay – I have no idea what CEST means on the ending time. The piece is definitely not bobbinlace as stated. It caught my notice because it looks like the ‘Romanian Point’ that seems to have caught on so well with needlelace makers in the US. But seems to be mainly crochet – anyway, I thought it was interesting.

Sold for 10.50 EUR

Posted in Ebay Alerts! | 1 Comment

Interview: Maria Niforos

Maria Niforos is the kind of lace dealer that one dreams about – offering outstanding pieces, educated through long experience, and with a great love of lace nurtured by a famous mentor. Her web site, http://www.marianiforos.com/ makes the dream a reality.   And her Ebay listings under the ‘mithya’ name offer a wide range of lace and other textiles to tempt both novice and experienced collector. If that were not enough, you can visit her shop in the Portwine Galleries, London.
Maria has not spoken much about her work before, and this is a rare opportunity to know her better.

LaceNews: Maria, thank you so much for this special opportunity to talk. I know many important collectors who have purchased spectacular pieces of lace from you, and your website is amazing. How did you start dealing in lace?
Maria:
Thank you very much Laurie for your kind words concerning the lace I sell and the website. My son Joseph created the website and my other son Daniel is in charge of pictures and the running of the website.
I am reminded of the song “It was thirty years ago today”…
I am not sure if I found lace or lace found me. Life works in mysterious ways and I believe there is something in all of us that finds the particular path we end up taking in our journey through life. When people ask me this question, my answer is usually that “Necessity is the Mother of Invention” or it was the case in this instance.
First I would like to say some words about a very dear and remarkable lady, her name is Elizabeth Czabafy. Elizabeth was one of the great lace dealers in London at the time, friend and collaborator on identification of lace with people like Santina Levy, Pat Earnshaw, Fulvia Lewis  and other lace collectors and experts in lace. Practically every single lace dealer today in London was helped by this great lady. She would give her knowledge to all and she would also make sure that we were given the right price for the lace we found. Superb pieces of lace have found their way into great collections and museums because of Elizabeth.
I started casually around thirty-two years ago, mainly because of Elizabeth. I was walking down Portobello Road at the time, walked into Portwine Galleries and there she was selling lace. She sold me all the lace she did not want, wonderful flounces of lace, all very pretty. At my first fair I sold all of it so of course I returned time and again to buy from her.
I finally ended up in Portwine Galleries and whenever I found  early handmade lace, I would give it to Elizabeth  to sell for me. In those early days I knew very little about handmade lace. Elizabeth was my teacher, a remarkable lady who helped me in every way.
So, the story is a long one… but we meet remarkable people throughout our life. Elizabeth is one of these remarkable people. She was my teacher and my benefactor as she sold the lace I found on its merit and rarity and also for the right price at that time. In a sense she is one of the people that I will always be grateful to.


Elizabeth Czabafy at her 90th birthday party in London, 1999. She passed away at the age of 100 last year in her native Hungary.

Years have gone by now, lace allowed me to raise and educate my children, it allowed me to be with them at home and to pay for everything that needed to be paid for. I have been fortunate to handle and to appreciate the finest laces and to help find these beautiful pieces a “Home”. There is a great pleasure in knowing that these pieces go to collectors who love and appreciate them. Merchantdom has never held a great attraction to me, somehow being a “Merchant of Lace” is more acceptable for me. Preservation of the beautiful mind and nimble fingers that composed these laces is the added bonus.
My favorite lace is ‘Puntoinaria”………. which of course means “Stitches in The Air”. Our lives are woven like these stitches in the air.

LaceNews: I know this isn’t a question that dealers or collectors often like to answer, but where do you find such high quality material?
Maria:
My first response to this question turns its face to philosophy. It is where I start and where I end up, so to speak.  Do we find the lace or does the lace find us? When the decision is made to go down a path, everything unfolds for the person.
After selling for so many years I have made many contacts. Many dealers know what I look for and I am happy to pay the price if the item is beautiful. The good thing about buying from dealers is that they have a good understanding of price and also search for quality items. In the end, everyone in the line so to speak, benefits. I pay the price if I can and I pay a high price if I need to for the items my collectors are looking for.
I travel a fair amount and am always willing to go if someone gets in touch with me. I also go to auctions and travel in Europe. I also have been fortunate to be recommended to handle de-acquisition of collections and sometimes take special estates on commission.

LaceNews: What shows do you do? Where can we find you this coming year?
Maria:
I do five shows a year in the United States. The Pier show in New York and Vintage Textile show up in Sturbridge, Mass. I might try Texas this year as I know a very nice man who runs a lovely event there as I would like to see Texas, so to speak. Maybe take a few suitcases of lace etc with me. I fancy a change and especially some time away from the computer! Thought of doing the Miami shows, mainly to get to the sun in winter but that has not happened yet!
My three children are here in the United States for the time being and also two wonderful grandchildren… the good part is Love….. the bad part is it tends to keep this “fish” grounded. I kept thinking I would go back to London to live as I have lived there for most of my life… but I am one of those, where my children go… I go too. Lucky for me, that they love me!
So, five shows here, shop in London, selling to people in the fashion and antiques trade, supplying dealers still overseas.

LaceNews: My world view of lace is greatly influenced by how I have developed as a collector.  In the beginning I collected everything with a ‘handmade’ lace label, as if I had a personal mandate to save a lost art  (which turned out not to be so very lost). I suspect most people start this way. It either becomes overwhelming and they quit, or they learn to hone their collection to some specialty or to a particular quality.  How do you see collectors develop from your point of view as a Lace Merchant?
Maria:
I think the person who decides to start collecting lace is quite special in a way. One basically need ‘eyes” to see the intricacy and depth of lace. They also need “ears” to hear the history of lace when they look at a piece. I also think the lace collector has some kind of romantic side, has a love of beauty and a appreciation of history. I believe the lace collector has a different way of living.. some kind of intuitive understanding of  life . They understand the connection, perhaps they even “feel” the nimble fingers that worked under one lamp in wet barns to produce these beautiful pieces. The image, on one lit lamp shining on one piece of flax is quite amazing. I am reminded of a beautiful  quote from Jalahudin Rumi, the great Dervish teacher. “Let the beauty you love, be what you do.” A collector may not be a lacemaker, but they  certainly have a understanding of beauty.
We all start our journey somewhere! I believe the lace collectors start collecting  smaller pieces of lace and then are drawn in a certain direction. The eye becomes more refined and their knowledge also grows. This combination then sends the lace collector on the journey they take  in regard to their collection. Eventually they find their own particular  “path of lace” they become more passionate about and head in that direction. I believe most collectors start in this way.  In the end “Decision ” is paramount, not only in collecting lace but also in the direction we take in our life.
In London, I mainly sold to dealers from Brussels etc and so I started to know very quickly which were the best laces to buy. All owed of course to Elizabeth identifying and selling the lace for me. I mainly had only dealers. One particular man came every Saturday from Brussels.. again Elizabeth taught him also about many laces. He would just come and buy every single Saturday. I must say that most of my time was spent looking for the lace he was buying. I soon came to understand  that it was the best quality he was looking for, interesting designs and quality workmanship were desired.
I had only sold lace here in the U.S. at a lacemaker’s event in Ithaca. I only found out about that as my daughter went up to Cornell to do her Master’s degree when we came from London. I was surprised to find appreciative lace collectors at this event. We had just come from London and so most of my dealings in lace made their way to Americans mainly through dealers I sold to in Brussels. I had no idea there was such a large lace presence in the United States. I was quite pleased to find so many lace collectors. Their appreciation made me want to hold pieces back I would normally sell in London so that I could offer the lace to these collectors.

LaceNews: Lace is not your only business – you often show other textiles. A particular favorite of mine are the Chinese embroidered shawls. Tell us about your other textile interests.
Maria: Lace and linens have always been what I specialized in. I have also always sold fans, children’s early clothing, some ladies fine and elaborate clothing and have sold those lovely Chinese embroidered shawls for a very long time. I have had hundreds and hundreds of those beautiful shawls. I have also sold lovely relevant accessories when I have come across them.
I started selling other textiles around ten to twelve years ago.. not many, usually if there was something that appealed to me. Textiles sell well here in the United States and when I started doing a few shows here I started to bring them over for these shows.
This past year I was commissioned to sell the estate of the famous New York textile dealer Francois Nunnale. Francois was a major force in antique linens and textiles and had a extraordinary collection of items. She had had linens and textiles from all the great estates, the Astors, Whitneys, Vanderbilts, Morgan and assorted royalty throughout Europe. She sold to many rich and famous important people and helped amass collections of linens, Fortuny, textiles etc for her customers. There were boxes and boxes of items and a large part of the year has been spent is finding homes for these pieces. It has taken a lot of time and I am still in the process of going through boxes.

LaceNews: Your ebay name is mithya, which is lovely. How did you come up with this?
Maria:
I have been studying philosophy, spiritual books and religions for over thirty years. I have come to respect all the great traditions and have had teachings in Advaita philosophy. In this teaching the word mithya has a few meanings, a dream, a transient state, unreal and also according to the Shankaracarya of the tradition, a “relative reality”. I liked the concept of the unreal, the dream… which I thought very apropo to selling on this strange cybertool. The fact that everyone meets, mainly without ever actually “seeing” each other, was interesting. I have come to see that one does not need to see a physical form even though it would be nice… one can “hear” a person. Sometimes almost as good as seeing!

LaceNews: Tell us some of your Internet experiences – how have you effectively added this tool to the traditional ones of a Lace Merchant?
Maria: My daughter Michele was the first to suggest selling on the internet.. it took awhile to convince me.
I helped my son open a shop around a year ago……A lovely shop called “The Village Soccer Shop”. Daniel’s artistic vision was enhanced with his brother’s Joseph artistic skill and also with a little help from me. It looks great and has done quite well for these times…. unfortunately it meant I lost my website help!!! It takes an amazing amount of time. Daniel is slowly starting to have time to upload and do the website again. The website gives an idea of the type of items we usually look for. We only manage to get a small portion of items we sell on for now… We have supplied many dealers in Europe and Japan for a long time and so many items do not stay around long enough to have pictures taken – this will eventually change as time goes on.
After looking on Ebay’s lace pages, I realized that there were not many very early and fine pieces of lace on Ebay and I saw a opening. In the last year, I have done a few major shows, sold a lot to my collectors through pictures I sent. I also had Joseph’s help in putting items on Ebay. Joseph was instrumental with setting up the ‘Buy It Now” on Ebay.  At first, I was doubtful but soon came to realize it had its merits. When I buy at auctions there are items that sometimes do not warrant being sent to Europe because of their weight, sheets, etc., so we put these items on Ebay. We also put some items of Francois estate on Ebay. When I buy, I am always looking, it could mean only a few items in a lot, if there are numerous other pieces, eventually they make their way to Ebay or to a show here in the United States.
I mainly miss selling the good handmade laces on Ebay. I take great pleasure in offering these laces to the eclectic and knowledgeable collectors I have found through Ebay. This year I mainly would like to concentrate on doing less on the internet and spend more time traveling…. saying that, good laces will always be part of the picture ..right now, there is just a mass of other items that need to be sold.
The lace collectors and makers on Ebay and those I have met through the website are very special people. I think I get alot of pleasure from working with them. I doubt very much I would be selling on the internet if it were not the case as I have a tendency to like traveling.

LaceNews: You mentioned that you particularly like Punto in Aria, but is there some special piece that you have handled in your career that is a personal favorite?
Maria:
This is a difficult question as I have been fortunate to sell many beautiful pieces, I guess the ones that made my heart skip a beat when I found them would be….
– A early 17thc. Cutwork handkerchief that eventually made it’s way to a museum.
– A early sixteenth or seventeenth century Reticella, Punto in Aria and Cut Work cover.
– The earliest known  bobbin lace fan with mythological theme  that had ever come  up at Christie’s in London.This eventually was bought for a museum.
– A rare early pair of Point De France lappets and another bobbin lace pair that I was told were so important that they were probably made for a great Eastern merchant. These also eventually made their way to a museum I believe. I think one of the Miller books on Antiques has some pictures of these pieces.
– A mid-seventeenth century  mirror image cloth with amazing scrollwork design and mythological animals etc.
– An amazing Brussels Point De Gaze oval wedding veil that was purported to have belonged to Princess Alexandra of Russia, given to her by her Godmother Queen Victoria.
– A  superb  and extremely rare  large Blonde lace bedspread with cherubs. See the bedspread
– Aemilia Ars four poster bed set and canopy and other Aemilia Ars tablecloths ,etc.
– 19thc. Brussels Point De Gaze fan with amazing pictorial scene of a boy fishing amidst a pastoral scene.  This is probably the fan

LaceNews: Maria, thank you so much for this extraordinary interview. And everyone is closely watching the wonderful Brussels shawl that you put up on Ebay a few days ago!
Maria: Thank you Laurie…. I am impressed with the dedication you have to lace and to the community of lace. Thanks for all the kind words… it has been a pleasure to get to “Know” you through your questions…………. dialogue works wonders really. It frees us! I must admit, it was probably good for me that you” caught” me as I do tend to have a tendency to run the other way when asked for pictures or for an interview.

You can contact Maria at ariam7@gmail.com
Her website is http://www.marianiforos.com
Or visit Portwine Galleries (Saturdays or by appointment), 175 Portobello Road, London

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Ebay Alert! Five Items – September 30, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/2dba28j EXQUISITE BRUSSELS LACE SHAWL/VEIL W/POINT DE GAZE
Current offer:
$665.01  22 bids  reserve not met
Auction ends: Oct 03, 201018:11:41 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, Ebay seller mithya, London and New York
Comments: I like to avoid superlatives, but this piece really is stunning.  Note the pointed petals on the roses, a sign of a very high quality piece.
In a few days I’m posting a remarkable interview with Maria – we’ve been working on it for a week. I can only hope this may have inspired her to resume listing really high quality pieces like this shawl.

Sold for $3,995.00

http://tinyurl.com/2fqquo6 ANTIQUE LACE- LARGE BEDSPREAD W/EARLY LACES
Current offer:
$45.00  no bids  reserve not met
Auction ends: Oct 03, 2010 18:42:08 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, Ebay seller mithya, London and New York
Comments: It is surprising how many times one finds early laces assembled into some kind of large linen piece. This one is a rather eclectic collection from numerous time periods. The collector needs to decide if this is a legitimate attempt to preserve early pieces, or a commercial version of more modern ‘Normandy’ laces. Whatever-  it is interesting.

Failed to make the reserve.

http://tinyurl.com/2e32guu FUSEAUX ANCIENS DENTELLE ANCIENNE / COUTURE
Current offer:
EUR 8.00  no bids
Auction ends: Oct 05, 201009:39:02 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller passionato56, France
Comments: This is only one of a series of listings by this seller offering Normandy bobbins with the original celluloid thread protectors. These protectors come in a large number of patterns, and often don’t survive over the years.

Did not sell.

http://tinyurl.com/2fgneah ANCIENNE SCULPTURE BOIS-DENTELLIERE-ART POPULAIRE-XIXém
Current offer:
EUR 53.00  8 bids
Auction ends: Oct 04, 2010 11:20:04 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller electrohippies-61, MAUSSANE LES ALPILLES, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’, France
Comments: This piece is dated 1869, I don’t know if this is accurate. Buyer beware.  The patina seems good, but without direct examination, it’s hard to tell. An unusual piece, and if the date can be verified, potentially important.

Sold for 303.00 EUR

http://tinyurl.com/22nqt87 GRANDE DENTELLIERE EN BOIS SIGNEE
Current offer:
EUR 39.00  1 bid
Auction ends: Oct 04, 2010 12:04:48 PDT PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller jack_russel, Seraing, Belgium
Comments: A larger version of a piece noted on Ebay Alert! on September 9, 2010 (Ebay #270632980573). That one sold for EUR 158.00.

Sold for 277.00 EUR

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Collecting: English Tokens related to the Lace Trade – Part II, 19th Century

11/19/2014:  Added a second Walker token from Brighton

When I first noticed the later English tokens, it was a bit hard to take them seriously. No information on them was available in lace-related literature.  They seemed mostly to be boring advertisements for various merchants, and I nearly missed a very interesting class of collectibles. My impression was largely a result of a bias toward searching out lace-related material, which leads naturally toward examples issued by lace manufacturers and sellers. Hence the more mercantile nature of the coins. It is sometimes hard for the lace collector to remember that lace was not only designed and made, but also made up into a salable form and marketed.
Much research remains to be done as to the specific purpose of these coins, whether they were used for currency, trade, or advertising. Dates are also largely unknown, although they could likely be revealed by a careful search of existing coin catalogs. Shown below are some representative examples.

The first three tokens were issued by a shop in St. Paul’s Churchyard, under different management over the years. See the excellent comment by KarlAntonMartini at the end of this post.


Hall and Allan, Waterloo House, 69, 70 & 71 St. Pauls Churchyard.
Drapers, Silk Merchants, Haberdashers, Hosiers, Lacemen & Furriers.
Around 1840. The partnership was dissolved in 1846.


Allen Son & Co., Waterloo House, 69, 70 & 71 St. Pauls Churchyard, London
2.48 centimeters diameter, 5.5 grams.
Drapers, Mercers, Shawlmen, Lacemen & Furriers
Dates somewhere in the 1860’s.


Bailey & Ritchie, 77 & 78 St. Pauls Churchyard
2.46 centimeters diameter, 5.05 grams.
Mantels dresses and linen drapers
Hosiery, Furs & Silks, Shawls, Gloves, Lace
1846-1849, see comment below.

A pictorial advertising token is from Falkner Brothers. The building depicted is probably their storefront.

  
Falkner Brothers, New Bazaar, Bridge Street
2.6 cm diameter, 5.6 grams.
Drapers, Mercers, Shawlmen, Lacemen & Furriers
The design is similar to the Allen Son & Co. token shown above.

Another pictorial advertising token is from T. Seaber, Birmingham.

Seaber_front_jpg   Seaber_back_jpg
T. Seaber, Victoria House, Bull St, Birmingham
2.36 cm diameter, 4.2 grams.
The Establishment for good & cheap shawls, silks, dresses, prints, furs, mantles,
Lace, gloves, hose & general drapery

The next token is probably as close as we can come to a true 19th century ‘trade’ token. ‘Lace dresser’ was a common occupation in the machine made lace industry, indicating one who bleached, starched and stretched the lace as it came off the machine. The dresser also separated the lace into bands of various widths by pulling out a dividing marker thread and cutting along the trace. They then finished and packaged the result for sale. I’ve seen examples of this token with different numbers on the back, so I’m not sure what they mean.


J&W Lambert, Nottingham.
3.5 cm diameter, 11.4 gm
Lace Dressers, with 2-15 inscribed on the reverse.

The next three examples are from Brighton, and both show the Royal Chain Pier on the reverse.


John B. Walker, Buckingham House, St. James St., Brighton
2.8 centimeters diameter, 8.1 grams
Drapery, Mercery, Thread Lace, Warehouse

Walker_2_jpg Walker_2_back_jpg
A second Walker token, Buckingham House, St. James St., Brighton
2.8 centimeters diameter, 8.4 grams
Drapery, Mercery, Thread Lace, Warehouse


Thos Roff Tamplin, 28 New Road, Brighton.  1825 date?
2.74 centimeters diameter, 7.4 grams
Drapery, Mercery, Thread Lace, Warehouse
This is obviously the same reverse as the previous coin. There must be a great story about the pierced hole.

So there remain questions about the 19th Century tokens:
– What are the exact dates of issuance?
– What are they made of? Some look copper, some brass, some guilded.
– Why were they issued – advertisement, trade, small currency? How were they valued? We occasionally find mention of lace tokens given to lacemakers in exchange for work or as a substitute for small legal change – and tend to take this as obvious exploitation. But our view can be highly biased seen in the light of our own 21st century circumstances. Careful research is needed to search out and document the original settings, underlying reasoning and actual economic effects to understand this specific element of history. Perhaps it was a system that worked well, perhaps not. We mustn’t judge without the facts on all sides. All in all, it’s an excellent subject for a student.

Posted in Collecting | 14 Comments

Ebay Alert! Three Items – September 26, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/2ebgfdq Rouet campagnard – carreau de dentellière – fuseaux
Current offer:
EUR 25.00  no bids
Auction ends: Oct 04, 2010 03:41:51 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller mapy43, Aiguilhe, France
Comments: Typical French bobbin winder, looks in good shape.  Sometimes these have a windmill attachment for the thread skein, but I don’t see a peghole to fit one in. It may never have had one. Collectors are often more familiar with the English windmill bobbin winder. Seller states it is from the Auvergne region.

Sold for 25.50 EUR

http://tinyurl.com/29omxua Antique Lace – Fine 19thc Chantilly Lace Handkerchief
Current offer:
$125.00  no bids
Auction ends: Sep 29, 2010 06:02:37 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, Ebay seller mithya, London-New York
Comments: Looks like a beautiful piece, excellent condition. Handkerchief edges in Chantilly don’t come around too often.

Sold for $188.05

http://tinyurl.com/2a5w4xc 1908 – Dentelles Italienne 2 FOLIOS + 150 PHOTOS Italie
Current offer:
EUR 9.00 1 bid
Auction ends: Oct 04, 2010 13:28:18 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller le_colporteur, Saint-Emilion, France
Comments: First edition 1980 2-volume set of Elisa Ricci’s famous work. (the third volume was published in 1911 – not included here). In Italian.  Seller states there is humidity damage, some pictures missing. But for 9 Euros…

Sold for 80.99 EUR, image no longer available.

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Ebay Alert! Two Items – September 23, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/28rrag4 Plaque de Dentellière Auvergne
Current offer:
Eur 159.00  no bids
Auction ends: Sep 29, 2010 11:10:57 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller dufonducanape, Rhone Alps, France
Comments: A much better plior than the one previously featured on Ebay Alert. Good pierced caving, still a primitive look.

Sold for 175.00 EUR.

http://tinyurl.com/234ozud Antique Chantilly Lace Fan – Eventail – Ventaglio
Current offer:
GPB 89.00  no bids
Auction ends: Sep 30, 2010 11:05:59 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, Ebay seller mithya, London and New York
Comments: This looks to be a nice handmade Chantilly fan, although the photos aren’t close enough to really get a good look.  Seller says it is from Bayeaux, but offers no proof. If so it would be a valuable attribution.  Appears to be nice work, ebony sticks in good condition.

Sold for 97.00 GBP.

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Collecting: English Tokens related to the Lace Trade – Part I, 17th and 18th centuries

12/9/2011 – Updated to add the St. Eeds token, Peter Reynoldes  and James Brierly examples.
11/13/2016 – Added the silver gilt Leighton version.

After noting the stolen lace token article in LaceNews, several readers have asked for more information on English tokens. This is also an excellent opportunity to start a new category, which will be come a regular Wednesday LaceNews feature – highlighting a lace or lace-related collectible.

Tokens were small change coins issued by a merchant under government license, or by the merchant himself for local use. In virtually all cases tokens were a response to an emergency shortage of coinage. Three references discuss lace-related tokens:
Thomas Wright, “The Romance of the Lace Pillow”. 1st ed 1919, 2nd ed vol 1 1924, 2nd ed vol 2 1930.
Dalton & Hamer, “The Provincial Token-Coinage of the 18th Century”, 5 volumes, 1910-1918.
Christine & David Springett, “Success to the Lace Pillow”, 2nd ed., 1997.

English Tokens of the 17th century were issued from the late 1640’s to the late 1670’s. This coincided with the ‘Interregnum’ period of Oliver Cromwell. After the restoration of the monarchy of Charles II the crown started issuing its own copper coinage in 1672, and the private issues were declared illegal. The 17th c merchant tokens were of copper, handmade, small and thin, and rarely survive in good condition. Four lace-related ones have been recorded:

1) James Brierly, a lace dealer of Olney. The obverse has his name and the letters B.I.M. (the B is for Brierly, I is for James, and M for his wife’s first name) The reverse says “of Olney 1658”. The example below was sold at auction May 4, 2011 for $130.  16mm diameter, 0.99 gm weight.

2) Peter Reynoldes, Buckingham: Reynold’s name is on one side with a strip of lace on one side. On the reverse, ‘of Buckingham 58’ is written around the circumference,  RPF in the center. A drawing of this token is contained both in the Wright (shown below) and Springett books. The example illustrated below was sold at auction in England, November 28, 2001 for 190 GBP. The auction catalog notes that only two other examples are known, both in private hands. The catalog also describes Peter Reynoldes (†December 1671) as a lace buyer and churchwarden. He married Frances Woodcocke in December 1637, so the ‘F’ on the coin would be her first initial.

  

3) Iohn Rennals, Buckingham, 1668. John Reynolds was a lace buyer; married firstly Elizabeth Goodman, September 1653 (†1654); his second wife’s name was Elitia and she was still living in 1673. Reynolds was a signatory of the Orthodox Confession of 1679. This one seems to have come in three variations. All have “Of Bvckingham, his halfe-penny” on the front.
1. On the reverse, one variation has a strip of lace and a cinquefoil on the rim.
A very worn example of the first type is shown below. The strip of lace can just barely be made out in the right-hand image. It is ~2cm in diameter and weighs 2.0 gm.

  

2. A second example has the cinquefoil and initials I.E.R.
3. A third example has the I.E.R. and a sexfoil (only one known example exists). I think the spelling of the name on the last two might be John Rennals.

4) Two variations from St. Neots, Huntingdonshire, which were produced by the town itself. These are extensively described in a paper in the British Numisimatic Society Journal Vol 55 #11, “A Hoard of St Neot’s ‘Lace-Making’ Tokens from Eynesbury” (St Neot’s Paper.) In June 1983 a hoard of these tokens were discovered hidden on top of a beam in a 17th century timber frame building in Eynesbury, St. Neot’s, Huntington, Cambs.  The ‘hoard’ consisted of fourteen tokens.
1. Obverse. “The overseers of” on the outside. “Their halfe penny” in the center
Reverse. “The Towne of St. Eeds” around the outside. Two seated women making lace are in the center. The token is shown below it is ~2.1 cm in diameter and weighs 1.65 gm.  Note the hole, this might have been used as a bobbin spangle, but that is only speculation.

2. Same as 1., but the name of the town is St. Neots.  This token is shown below. It is ~2.1 cm in diameter and weighs 0.95 gm. These two examples are basically the same size, but the difference in weight is striking. The St. Eeds example is in much better condition than the St. Neots one. I have not been able to find a town of St. Eeds, but St. Neots is well described on Wikipedia. They are apparently the same town.

17th century tokens come up for sale very rarely, and good examples go for several hundred dollars.  Then again, the St. Neots example above was picked up on Ebay in 2011 for $46.00. These tokens are contemporary with Leonard Wheatcroft’s Bone Lace Weaver (http://tinyurl.com/7dxpayo).

Another coinage shortage appeared in the late 18th century, when the  English Royal Mint almost ceased production. Tokens here are larger than the 17th-18th century variety, around the 1/2 penny value. Primarily machine made, they might be used for trade (in goods, not normally for currency), advertising, or politics. As a class they are known as ‘Condor’ tokens, after the first author to write about them.
Two famous lace-related tokens were issued, both with similar front images of a seated lacemaker,  but with different reverse. Both have several edge variations:
1.  Leighton Berkhamsted 1794: Dalton and Hamer list five different varieties of this token. They all have identical images and legends, but different edges. They are noted as having been engraved by Wyon and struck by Peter Kempson of Birmingham. The different edge varieties as follows:
a: Milled edge
b: Edge inscription “PAYABLE AT W. GOLDSMITHS BRAINTREE ESSEX”.
c: Edge inscription “PAYABLE AT JOHN ROOK NORWICH”.
d: Edge inscription “CHAMBERS LANGSTON HALL & CO.” (a haberdasher of 46, GutterLane, Cheapside, London).  The usual copper version is shown below. One ton were reportedly struck, and they are quite easy to find at auction. The example below  is 2.9 cm in diameter, and weighs 10.1 gm.
e: Plain edge.

There is also a  proof version struck in silver. The example shown below is gilt in gold.

leighton_1leighton_2

2.  1795: Moore’s Lace Manufactory 1/2d token.  A half ton of these tokens were reportedly struck, and can easily be found at auction.
a: Coarse milled edge.  An example is shown below. It is 2.9 cm in diameter, weight is 11.5 gm.
b: Fine milled edge.
c: Edge inscription “PAYABLE AT I. JORDANS DRAPER GOSPORT”.
d: Plain edge.

I don’t know if a silver proof of this version was struck.

19th century tokens will be discussed next week. Lace-related 19th century examples have never been adequately documented, and represent an excellent collecting opportunity.

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Ebay Alert! Four Pieces – September 19, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/26fgzzj Antique Lace – Fine 19th c. Bobbin Lace Collar
Current offer: $295.00 Buy it Now
Auction ends: Up for 30 days
Offered by: Maria Niforos, doing business as Ebay seller Mithya, London-New York
Comments: Quite a nice bertha of Belgian pieced lace. Might be a few weaknesses by the closing area, but overall nice condition. I’m surprised this hasn’t sold by now – it’s been listed before.

Did not sell.

http://tinyurl.com/23kuset Antique Lace – Superb Bussels Point de Gaze Lace
Current offer: $495.00 no bids
Auction ends: Sep 24, 201011:08:30 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, doing business as Ebay seller Mithya, London-New York
Comments: The piece isn’t very long, 47″, but has several good points. What the collector looks for in 19th century raised petal Belgian needlelaces, is condition, a good length as wide as possible, non-standard design, and superior execution, particularly in the ‘jours’. The variety and complexity of these jewel-like fillings is always a mark of quality. I would also add, look for raised rose petals that look a little different – various manufacturers can be distinguished by the style of their petals. This piece has particularly interesting round-end petals. Hopefully it’s too short to be cut up for a wedding dress.

Did not sell.

http://tinyurl.com/2493wvd Antique Lace – Irish Crochet Christening Bonnet
Current offer: $55.00 no bids
Auction ends: Sep 24, 2010 12:35:55 PDT
Offered by: Maria Niforos, doing business as Ebay seller Mithya, London-New York
Comments: I like this nicely made little cap. It shows the use of Irish crochet as a material in itself, not just as a series of motifs.  Good geometric design, tight work.

Sold at $55.00

http://tinyurl.com/23ch7yk Elaborate Irish croch collar c1910
Current offer: GPB 20.00, unknown reserve, no bids
Auction ends: Sep 27, 2010 02:42:56 PDT
Offered by: Ebay seller lunnantiques, London
Comments: Design may look a bit odd, but I like this piece for its technique. Nice tight work in the motifs, many raised areas, lots of innovation in the grounds.  It might be French, not Irish.  Condition seems quite good – seller indicates that it has been laundered.

Sold for 50.00 GBP

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Interview: Anne Swift

Anne Swift is a longtime London lace dealer with a stall on the famous Portobello Road (Street Stall 1 Portobello Road – corner of Portobello Road and Westbourne Grove.) She is also the seller EASTAYTON on Ebay, and it is well worth the wait for her excellent listings. LaceNews is delighted to have the opportunity to talk to Anne. At least it started with Anne, but soon became obvious that lace is a passion of the entire Swift family.


The Swift Family, being interviewed by Oshikiri Moe for the Japanese TV show ‘Eigo de Shaberanaito’ three years ago. The name roughly translates to ‘You have to speak English’. The show is based on the experiences of the interviewer living with a family with an interesting job for a weekend, usually in the US or UK. Here they were highlighting the antiques business.


The Portobello stall (at right), early before the crowds come.

LaceNews: You have been dealing in wonderful lace for years. When and how did you get started?
Anne:
I started around 30 years ago in the Portobello Road antiques market. I started by selling whitework and gradually drifted into laces.  In that time I have sold at lace fairs in Belgium, Holland, Germany, Spain, Denmark, Sweden, Japan, Finland, Czech Republic and the Oidfa Fair in Nottingham. In most cases with the help of my husband, Philip. In future I may go to the next 2012 Oidfa fair in Caen.

LaceNews: Portobello Road is an amazing institution, what is it like having a stall there?
Anne:
I have an outside stall in the Portobello Road – lovely in Summer, not so nice in Winter. Now my son is learning the business and we take him, and his wife, there on Saturday morning and Philip picks them up later in the day. Very often they make a loss, especially in Winter but our son is determined to carry on. He graduated in Ancient History and Japanese at UCL and SOAS, London, but there is no job open to him at present. He did teach first year anthropology at UCL , but this work finished with the University cut-backs – hence his market work.

LaceNews: You told me that your son just got married?
Anne: Our son Phil got married recently here in London to a lovely Japanese girl. She graduated from the English Royal College of Art and has a website.(http://www.chisatotamabayashi.com/ the Shadows Interlacing piece is based on lace)   She has exhibited in the Victoria and Albert museum. There were ca 120 guests who flew in from Spain, Germany, Belgium and Japan and of course from all parts of England.

LaceNews: Things have changed so much over the years. How has the Internet affected your business?
Anne: With the help of Philip I try to sell laces on Ebay. In my last offering I advertised a wedding veil, (“buy it now”),  which sold immediately. Unfortunately Philip mixed up Dollars with Euros and sold it for less than I paid for it!  C’est la vie.
Philip finds it hard work – lots of pictures etc. Hence we only “do” about 10 items a month. My son is setting up a website , with the help of a friend, but so far I am not pleased with the result.

LaceNews: Do you see any current trends in the antique lace market? You mentioned the Japanese film on your business, which is unusual publicity! Is much high quality lace now going to Japan?
Anne: I cannot say which pieces are in demand. It depends on the country of the buyer. The Japanese are not big buyers, although there are some lace collectors there.

LaceNews: Do you remember a particularly favorite piece in all your years as a dealer?
Anne: I have sold so many fine pieces that the question is difficult to answer.
Here are a couple of pictures showing a lovely English Bucks Point christening gown and a Nottingham machine lace curtain , which I displayed during the Nottingham OIDFA lace fair. I sold the curtain to the new lace museum in Calais. The gown I am not selling.  The curtain depicts the life of Joan of Arc – it is 5 yards x 1.5 yards . A beautiful piece. I also sold another large Nottingham curtain depicting a peacock and a woman from a fable by Jean de la Fontaine. This latter one is on permanent display, see photo.
The Calais museum is huge, they have a working Leavers machine; made in England in the early 19th century. Typically we have no lace museum in Nottingham and sold all our Leavers machines. The expertise is lost forever. We visited the museum a few weeks ago. Meanwhile the French machine lace industry is thriving.

LaceNews: Wonderful pieces, and the machine lace is very impressive! We will definitely have to do a profile of the Calais museum in the near future.  Thank you so much for the opportunity to talk, and don’t give up on the Web site!  These things take time and patience.

You can contact Swift Antique Lace at AntiqueLaces@aol.com.
And, you can visit the new website at antique-laces.com

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Ebay Alert! Three Items – September 16, 2010

http://tinyurl.com/2dlqf5c Exqusite Antique Brussels Bobbin Lace Wedding Veil
Current offer:
GPB 280 no bids
Auction ends: Sep 22, 2010, 14:13:20 PDT.
Offered by: Ebay seller fwollf63, Erzgebirge/Sachsen, Germany
Comments: This has the typical form of a bonnet veil, but is bigger than expected. Although not a hard and fast rule, bonnet veils typically leave the edge opposite the main border undecorated. The net looks machine made, the bobbin lace motifs are really quite nice.  Seem to be a few pinholes in the net, but overall good condition. A nice example.

Did not sell.

http://tinyurl.com/2ecnuev Chronik:Klöppeln i.Erzgebirge,S.Sieber/Aue/Sachsen 1955
Current offer:
EUR 35 Buy it Now or Make an Offer
Auction ends: Oct 14, 2010, 10:19:38 PDT.
Offered by: Ebay seller fwollf63, Erzgebirge/Sachsen, Germany
Comments: Fairly rare, reasonable price.

sold for 35.00 EUR

http://tinyurl.com/2cjtrgl ANTIQUE LACE 10 HANDMADE ROSALINE PERLEE LACE DOILIES
Current offer:
$350, no bids.
Auction ends: Sep 17, 2010, 17:04:48 PDT.
Offered by: Paivi Roberts, Ebay name GREATLACE, of Palm Springs, Florida
Comments: With an item like this the collector is really moving into the category of table linens. Well made, complete sets do very well in certain markets because they can be used – that is a personal decision a collector needs to make. It’s not unlike finding nice looking long lengths of point d’gaze – which often are cut up for wedding dresses.
The lace here is quite nicely made, and aside from a few brown spots, quite clean.  Condition and completeness is everything in this market.

Did not sell.

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